I was 13 when the European Union was formed in 1993. I remember it clearly. I went from unpatriotic, anti-nationalist Brit to ardent, die-hard Europhile pretty much overnight, waving my blue and yellow-starred flag with a pride I didn’t even understand. When my brother went off to work in France for a few months, or when he moved to Belgium to be with his now-wife who he met on a language course in Germany, or when my family took in a French exchange student for two weeks – I’ve known deep down and forever than I am a European.
Tomorrow, Britain is voting on whether to stay in the European Union. I’ve already cast my vote (by post) and my reasons are mostly emotional. I don’t know enough about economics or immigration or labour rights or competition law to even begin to vote on purely rational grounds. I honestly don’t think David Cameron should ever have asked us to vote in the first place; but he has so I did. And there was only ever one right answer for me. The EU was what allowed me to learn to cook in France in 1998, to work in Italy in 2000, to study in the Netherlands in 2001, to move back here permanently in 2006, and to import my American boyfriend in 2012. I realise that these tales of privilege might not resonate with everyone casting their vote in tomorrow’s referendum – but this is a blog, my personal story, not a political manifesto.
For the next 36 hours, my citizenship hangs in the balance: if my Britishness means I’m no longer European, what will happen to my citizenship here in the Netherlands? How will I sponsor the residency of my long-term non-EU partner? I don’t know the answer to either of these questions (or even if they’re the right questions to be asking), but I know I’ll trade in my British nationality for Dutch nationality if I have to. It’s not that I’d mind – I love the Dutch, and I love this country that’s welcomed me for over a decade. But to change one’s nationality is a big deal, nonetheless.
I’m not going to try and rationalise the arguments for staying, because I don’t even understand them myself. I’m simply going to say that I believe Europe is a better place for being in this thing together. In the Netherlands, just like in the UK, the immigrant cultures (whether EU or non-EU) have brought with them a richness and variety of cuisine that I can’t imagine life without. The thought of what I’m going to eat for dinner is what wakes me get up in the morning. Last year, I ate my way around London – yes, I ate pub grub in an English gastropub. I also ate Spanish jamon, French cassoulet, and Levantine hummus. But since I don’t know enough about restaurants in the UK to write this post about them, here are 10 “European restaurants” in Amsterdam that epitomise everything I love about free movement in the EU.
1. British: Greenwoods
I’ve got to start with the British as they’re the ones who are threatening to leave (although I fear a domino effect if they do). Greenwoods is the quintessential English tearoom (I prefer the branch at Keizersgracht 465) but their food covers the whole of Britain. Think Irish soda bread, Devonshire clotted cream, and even a breakfast dish called the “Englishman Abroad”, which I love as a title. Pictured here are the Eggs Greenwoods: poached eggs with cottage cheese, smoked salmon (optional) and avocado on soda bread. Delish.
Eggs Greenwoods at this quintessential British tearoom
2. Dutch: Daalder
The Netherlands: my adoptive country for the last 10 years… Of course, there are hundreds of Dutch restaurants in Amsterdam, but I recently returned to one particular restaurant that blew me away with its modern Dutch cuisine back in 2013. When I took my parents and in-laws there a few days ago, it transpired that the original chef had left – but the food was no less accomplished. Standout dishes for me were the amuse of tomato sorbet and parmesan foam, as well as the duck breast with a delightful potje of potato, beetroot and horseradish that perked up the palate no end. Daalder may not be all bitterballen and gouda – but its ingredients are no less local for their international influences.
My brother has lived in Belgium since I was 11, so it’s like a second home for me. When I’m craving a little Flemish hospitality in Amsterdam, I head to Stadscafe van Mechelen for whatever’s on their specials board.
I first found Wijnbar Boelen & Boelen soon after I moved here, when de Pijp was the (only) place to go out at night. After a long absence, I recently rediscovered it as a lovely spot for a glass of wine and a plate of cheese or charcuterie after work on a Friday evening. If you’re feeling flush, they do good, classic main courses as well: steak, duck and the like.
Charcuterie and a classic French red at wine bar Boelen & Boelen
5. Italian: Koevoet
While Koevoet’s décor screams Dutch eetcafe, one look at the menu will transport you straight to Sicily. Again, this was somewhere I discovered years ago but hadn’t been back to in a while simply because of all the new openings that I wanted to check out. But yesterday evening, on my in-laws’ last night in Amsterdam, I took them to Koevoet – and in doing so, transported myself back to a time when good Italian restaurants in Amsterdam were a lot harder to come by. Their carbonara is one of the best I’ve tasted outside Rome, and their ravioli had bite and poise and the requisite buttery-sage sauce.
One of the best carbonaras outside Rome at Koevoet
6. Spanish: Madrid
I first discovered Madrid after leaving a cookery workshop hungry. Yup, you read that right. Desperate for real food after three hours of raw cacao nonsense, we found ourselves at Madrid, ordering our way through the entire tapas menu. Now, it’s my go-to Spanish spot every time I’m in Oud-West.
I couldn’t make this list without mentioning my favourite neighbour: Alex. Not only has he helped me hoist my dining table through my top-floor window and lugged 50 kg of bamboo fence up my stairs. He also happens to make the best Greek bougatsa in town (flaky pastry filled with spinach and feta, for example, or minced beef). He is the ultimate schatje.
While Troost may be a local brewery, they serve up one excellent German snack: flammkuchen. Think mini-pizza, with very thin dough and toppings you’d more usually associate with the north of Europe than the south: bacon, onion and cheese, for instance, instead of tomato and mozzarella. Perfect beer food.
Beer and flammkuchen at Troost – perfect for a Friday night borrel
9. Polish: Pierogi Polish Dumplings Amsterdam
I met Sonia as a writer I commissioned for a blog I was managing for a client, but it quickly became apparent that her true passion lay in making her native Polish pierogi. You can now find her popping up at the Neighbourfood Market in Westerpark, on the menu at the Breakfast Club, and at various other places around town. Her potato and cheese pierogi are my favourite – and you can even order home delivery!
Ok, so my experiences of Portuguese food outside of Portugal haven’t been great (but if you’re headed to Lisbon, you’re in luck with my foodie guide!). However, there is a spot for fresh fish on the Zeedijk: de Portugees.
There was a time when takeaway meant pseudo chow mein from the dodgy Chinese restaurant around the corner, or Turkish pizza from that place down the street with the giant rotating meat stick in the window. Fortunately, times have moved on. We have the internet, for a start. Which – broadly speaking – has led to more choice, a greater appreciation for authenticity, and a range of different pick-up and delivery services that are better tailored to the people googling them.
All this is good news for those moments of laziness in which both cooking and going out to a restaurant are too much effort. Hangover Days, I’m talking about you. And Netflix Days – I’m talking about you, too. And so I present…
The Best Amsterdam Food Delivery Services
Food delivery services: because sometimes a Turkish pizza from down the straat just won’t cut it…
For a proper lazy hangover: Thuisbezorgd
Yes, Thuisbezorgd has been going strong for a while – and with pretty good reason. It’s simple to create an account, and the range of cuisine is huge – although it is limited to the usual takeaway suspects: Indian, Thai, pizza, ribs, you get the idea… Thuisbezorgd collects them all in one place and facilitates the delivery process. Of course, you could cut out the middleman, but every time I’ve tried to spell my address over the phone in Dutch with my English accent to another non-native Dutch speaker with (for example) an Indian accent – well, it’s quickly descended into linguistic chaos. Not what you need with that hangover…
Hummus, aubergine and other goodies from De Hummus House – delivered by Thuisbezorgd
Find out more at thuisbezorgd.nl (my favourite delivery options are Top Thai Thuis, Indian Food Express and De Hummus House – I think you can guess which types of food they each serve!). Note from the writer: JustEat.nl looks to perform more or less the same function, but their tagline – “Don’t Cook, Just Eat” – is practically against my religion. So I’ve boycotted them.
For those healthy mid-week days: Cropbox
It’s debatable whether you’re really going to crave vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free boxes of virtue on a Hangover Day, but let’s say either a) you’re one of these sensible, non-fry-up, hungover people; or b) you’re not actually hungover at all but are busy working. Cropbox currently makes up lunchboxes stuffed with greens, roots, nuts, seeds, grains and more that they deliver on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 12 and 1 pm for €9 throughout Amsterdam. The day I tried it (disclaimer: for free), my Cropbox included rice-stuffed papaya, Sri Lankan chickpea, spinach and cauliflower curry, roasted root veges, green beans and a sort-of onion bhaji – all dressed with a light coconut dressing. Conclusion: I’ll definitely be ordering it again!
Lunch from Cropbox – perfect for a sunny day on the roof!
Dedicated to bringing you the best, most authentic, highest quality food from Italy, Spain and France, What About Leo sources its products only from locally loved growers and producers. You won’t find their stuff anywhere else (except, of course, if you go and visit them in their respective countries – which is a tad pricey). What About Leo’s assortment currently includes wines (I loved this Cabernet Franc from the north of Italy), meats (I’ve got their smoked duck breast and a tin of rillettes currently sitting in my kitchen making eyes at me), cheeses (try the Parmigiano – to die for), fish, condiments and sweet treats. But as they visit more producers, their assortment changes and expands. Crack open a bottle of wine, cut up some salame and cheeses, and re-create your very own Italian aperitivo in Amsterdam.
Ignore the guy (if you can) and order the salami from What About Leo
I first discovered Marleen in 2014, and then realised she was cooking for half my colleagues at MegaCorp too. Her concept is to create healthy, family meals that are delivered fully prepared but cold; you then warm them up at home in the oven or microwave (she sends instructions with every dish). Orders need to be placed before 11 am on the day you want them delivered – but it’s also possible to pre-order for the coming two weeks. You then choose a 30-minute delivery slot between 4 and 8 pm. It’s been a while since I’ve ordered from Marleen Kookt, but you can read about my initial experience here and a couple of the dishes I’ve tried.
The difference between the Thuisbezorgds and Deliveroos of this world may not be immediately apparent. But the idea of delivery services like Foodora and Deliveroo is that they’re providing food that generally doesn’t tick the takeaway box – it ticks the restaurant box. Which means there are quite a few healthier options (SLA, Juice Brothers and Dr. Blend, for example, are all signed up to the service) as well as favourites like Salsa Shop, Shirkhan and Huf, which it’s nice not to have to leave the house for. If you’re feeling exceptionally lazy, you can even order wine, beer and ice cream! Delivery costs €2.50, waiting times are stated on the site when you order, and the selection of restaurants available depends on your postcode (so don’t kill me if you live in Oost and can’t see the places I’ve mentioned above!).
It was early 2007, and I’d just hired a makelaar to help me buy my first apartment in Amsterdam. I was considering Oud-West (I’d been living near the Overtoom for the past nine months or so), de Baarsjes perhaps, or maybe the Plantagebuurt. Back then, I’d never even heard of the skinny pizza-slice of land on the other side of the train tracks from the Westerpark. It was halfway to the dreaded Amsterdam Noord! I mean, it looked kind of central – so close to Amsterdam Centraal Station and the Jordaan – but who ever went north of the tracks? And then one crisp, bright February morning, I ventured up to the unheard-of Spaarndammerbuurt and stood in the middle of a still-being-renovated apartment with an open-plan kitchen (and this back in the day when every old building in Amsterdam featured a narrow galley kitchen off a chilly hallway)… I fell in love.
Five months later, I moved in and started exploring my new local neighbourhood. There were a couple of dodgy old-man bars, a post office and (thank god!) an Albert Heijn had just opened at the top of the street. But that was about it. When I wanted to go out in the evening, I biked to the Noordermarkt – it was the closest area with any kind of restaurants or bars. Even the Westergasfabriek was at that time home to Pacific Parc and not a lot else.
Almost ten years later, times have changed. A lot. People who don’t live in the Spaarndammerbuurt have actually heard of it. And that’s not all – they come here to go out in the evening but get away from the tourists at the same time. For now at least, we have the best of both worlds: a truly local neighbourhood vibe but with restaurants and bars worth getting on your bike for.
So, at the risk of ruining the very qualities I prize so much in my little slice of Amsterdam, I bring you…
The 10 Best Restaurants and Bars in Amsterdam’s Spaarndammerbuurt
Freud
As much social project as it is restaurant, Freud offers psychiatric patients the opportunity to work in its kitchen or front of house. The result? The service may be a little more eccentric than elsewhere in Amsterdam, but certainly no worse – and compared to a great many Amsterdam restaurants, considerably better. The food is good (and good value) too: eat three courses for under €30. The angle is loosely European, with the menu generally comprising a trio of starters followed by a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian main. The wine list is short but does the job. All in all, an unassuming but unfailingly pleasant little neighbourhood restaurant.
Ticking the aperitivo box is Bocconi: specialising in low-gluten bruschetta topped with all sorts of Italian delights, and serving them up with an uber-drinkable glass (or bottle) of Prosecco. They do low-gluten pasta as well, but don’t bother with that. Instead, order several rounds of their spelt-bread bruschetta: try the vitello tonnato, caponata or broccoli/parmesan/ginger versions. All delicious.
Arguably, de Walvis was the breakthrough that really started to make the difference to the Spaarndammerbuurt’s reputation. Opening in May 2012, it brought the hipsters to the hood – and as we all know, where the hipsters lead, the rest of us will (however reluctantly) follow. Although de Walvis is essentially just an eetcafe, it serves specialty beers, has a decent coffee machine, and is full of girls wearing high-waisted skinny jeans and louche ponytails. The food can be a little hit and miss, but you can’t go too wrong with the roast chicken or the burger at dinnertime – or indeed the tasty bar snacks at after-work o’clock.
As regular readers will know, I’m a confirmed omnivore with distinctly carnivorous tendencies. So it’s odd that I’d even step into a vegan restaurant. But when said vegan restaurant is five doors down from your place, there’s really no excuse – and I’m glad I gave Dophert a try. At least at lunchtime. Skip breakfast (it’s all scrambled tofu “eggs”, smoked tempeh “bacon” and seitan “chorizo” – kill me now) but at lunchtime they serve real food: tasty lentil salads, club sandwiches, great hummus, fresh juices and other things that even people who love actual bacon can enjoy.
I’ve had a soft spot for Bar Mick ever since they started a Facebook page way back in 2013 called something like “Living the dream of opening my own bar” (which, like any good alcoholic, has always been my dream too). Dick and Marijke took over what used to be the post office and turned it into one of my favourite bars in Amsterdam, serving Ciney (officially the tastiest beer in the world), piled-high burgers and the yummiest flammkuchen. Plus, the service is the friendliest in town.
Bar Mick’s flammkuchen – goes great with a Ciney beer!
Trela Plein
Another favourite since it opened back in 2014, Trela Plein seems to be home to the entire Greek population of Amsterdam every Sunday. And for good reason: Alexandros is dealing in the best line of bougatsa you’ll taste outside of Athens. Try the spinach and feta, or the beef and onion, or even the vanilla custard… perfect brunch fare. In summer, don’t miss their legendary iced coffees.
The Spaarndammerbuurt’s most upscale restaurant, Bistro Zuidlande cooks up classic French fare paired with a good wine list. Expect plenty of butter (my scallop starter must have weighed in at a good 2,000 calories all by itself) as well as slightly more adventurous ingredients like sweetbreads, foie gras, truffles, oysters and even pigeon. Mains are above the €20 mark (unlike pretty much anywhere else mentioned in this article), so you may want to save Bistro Zuidlande for a special occasion. (Or not. Personally I have zero problem with splashing out on a random Wednesday evening – because you’re worth it, right?!)
I’ll admit I wasn’t a huge fan of Pinsa’s when I first reviewed it back in 2010, and would frequently bike out of my way to Pizza Bakkers or La Perla instead. But in the last year or two I’ve given Pinsa’s the benefit of the doubt and started popping in for their spicy ‘nduja-topped Diabolicum pizza more and more. In the intervening years, their crust has got crispier, their toppings have got more plentiful, and their customer base has grown accordingly. You’ll sometimes have a long wait for your pizza – but if all you’re doing is meandering back from the Westerpark in search of sustenance then you’ve got plenty of time to hang out at Pinsa’s while the lovely Italian chef lady works her magic.
The latest addition to the Spaarndammerbuurt’s “restaurant plein” (at the crossroads of Spaarndammerstraat, Assendelftstraat and Van Noordtstraat you’ve got Bar Mick, Café de Walvis and Trela Plein already), Brasserie van Noordt is filling the meaty hole that Dophert is leaving. Their menu includes ribs, roast chicken, curries, burgers and other carnivorous offerings, as well as sandwiches and salads at lunchtime. Food-wise, I’ve not been too impressed so far BUT they do have the sunniest terrace on the plein served up with plenty of chilled rosé and La Chouffe…
I don’t usually review chains, and while there’s nothing wrong with Bagels & Beans, it wouldn’t usually make a list such as this for that reason alone. However, the complete lack of breakfast and brunch options in the Spaarndammerbuurt merits Bagels & Beans getting a mention as it’s currently the only place I can roll out of bed to in the morning. There is one caveat, however: I am deeply upset that they no longer serve my favourite bagel – the pastrami, cream cheese and pickles with mustard sauce. B&B, if you’re reading this, BRING IT BACK!!!
PS. If you are a chef/restaurateur thinking of opening a brunch place in Amsterdam, please please please come to the Spaarndammerbuurt! If you are any good, you will get free social media marketing from me every weekend as I sit there drinking your flat whites and instagramming about you
I can’t pretend I’m the first blogger to write about all the recent new stalls at de Foodhallen in Amsterdam West – a dozen of us were invited to eat our way through them, and many of my co-bloggers have been a lot quicker off the mark than I have. But I was waiting to be able to include a video from Amsterdam Calling – we were there together at de Foodhallen, and it gives you a much better idea of the atmosphere than I can give you in words. So without further ado, here we are stuffing our faces on camera…
I think you can tell we had a good time. But for more details on the food and the stalls selling them, look no further.
From Tempura to Tacos: Where to Eat at de Foodhallen Amsterdam
Gunther’s Flammkuchen
Flammkuchen are traditionally German, with toppings like cheese and sausage, but these seemed to be a modern take on the idea. We tried two versions while we were at it: the first involved beef carpaccio with truffle mayo, pine nuts and rocket; the second roasted vegetables and gruyere cheese. They were both nutty from the wafer-thin dough base and full of flavour from the truffle and cheese respectively. But I’d be interested to know if Gunther serves a more traditional German version, too…
Probably best described as “vegetarian food made fancy”, we tried two tasty morsels from Padron (presumably named after those moreish fried green peppers). The first was a tempura of Brussels sprouts, beetroot sticks and artichoke, served with tarragon mayo – crispy and creamy at the same time. The second was a tartar of smoked beetroot, red pepper and tomato with a quail’s egg – the smokiness of the beet gave it a savoury quality that made up for the lack of beef. If I go back, however, I’ll be trying their signature Padron peppers…
Ever in search of the perfect taco, I was excited to try Taqueria Lima West’s tortilla offerings… First up was a fried chicken taco with chipotle cream and avocado (I think) in a soft corn tortilla – while it was good, I felt it needed slightly more lime and slightly less salt. Next came a sort of pulled beef stew with chipotle, pickled cucumber and lime cream cheese in a soft corn tortilla – absolutely delicious! When (not if) I go back, however, I’ll be trying a third taco that the owner described to us in mouth-watering detail: cooked on a skewer, it involved smoky pork and pineapple. I cannot wait.
As owner Hilary Metcalfe Ramirez says, Fento is about making the healthy choice the easy and delicious one. Sounds good to me! With an all-vege menu, we tried a salad that was essentially like an autumn coleslaw with a miso dressing – simple but good. Unfortunately I didn’t try the “Tostada XL” because it was topped with a LOT of mushrooms (the devil’s fungus!), but it looked great and also involved black beans, feta and more – plus the people in my group seemed to like it! Finally, we topped off with a spoonful of what looked like ganache made with raw cacao, coconut, maple syrup and sea salt. With the texture of peanut butter, it was saltier and less sweet than I anticipated – possibly not one for the chocoholics, but suitable for those looking for a semi-sweet but virtuous treat.
I expect you can guess what these guys make: we tried about six different varieties of dumplings, but they also sold pork buns and some other Asian snacks as well. Dim Sum Thing’s ha kau and siu mai were pretty classic and nothing unexpected, but well made. I was less keen on their fried dumplings, which were overly bready and dry. The “spicy” dipping sauce could’ve done with a lot more chilli (there were two other non-spicy dipping sauces, so plenty for those without a head for heat).
Renato’s has been on my to-eat list for over a year now – they already have a pizzeria and osteria in de Pijp. But serving up antipasti, pizzette and dessert at a stall in de Foodhallen in Amsterdam West is a new string to their bow. On our antipasti board were burrata, truffle pecorino, tomato and basil bruschetta, prosciutto, and truffle ham with parmesan. There seemed to be truffle in most things – we weren’t complaining! The pizzette had a marvellously crispy base (as you’d expect from a pizzeria) and was topped with prosciutto, rocket and parmesan – for the chilli addicts like myself, you could also pep up your pizzette with chilli oil. Finally, a sgroppino made the classic way with vodka, lemon sorbet and prosecco was very much my kind of dessert!
Looking at Monsieur Baba’s website, it seems like it’s supposed to be an Arabic/French theme, but I found the balance of flavours to be too confusing for my palate. Interested to hear what others think, but this was definitely not my favourite. A poppadum topped with couscous, cauliflower, coriander and orange with a goat’s cheese cream on top had too many competing flavours and yet was weirdly bland at the same time. The chicken, lemon and fennel sandwich was garnished with so much dill that all I tasted was the dill and none of the rest – a shame. Finally, mini-ice creams turned out not to be ice cream! Instead, they were cone-shaped wafers with a super-sweet orange flavoured confectioner’s cream. Not my taste. But six out of seven ain’t bad!
Ok, so you might have tried them. But have you tried them in Amsterdam?
On a conference call with a guy in London the other day (we’re working on a website that involves an Amsterdam travel guide), he asked: “So what type of restaurants are there in Amsterdam? Dutch? French? Indian?” It was a fair enough question, but one that presumes we don’t enjoy the diversity here that London does. And yet I’d argue that we do – just in microcosm. Since I’ve lived here, the different types of cuisine you can eat in Amsterdam restaurants have multiplied. Ten-fold. We’ve got everything from Indonesian food (hell, Amsterdam is pretty much the European capital of Indonesian food) to Mexican food and lots in between.
Even for us Amsterdammers, however, there are still a few world cuisines that you’d never expected to find here. The city may be well known for its Surinamese population, but the number of comments and views my Beginner’s Guide to Surinamese Food in Amsterdam gets suggests that many people have still never tried it. Meanwhile, we’ve all had “Chinese” food (whatever that means when you’re talking about a country that’s as big as the whole of Europe put together) – but who’s tasted Sichuanese food unless they’ve travelled in the region? And Hawaiian food – who knew what that even included until the sudden trendiness of poké bowls?
Sichuanese food in Amsterdam: China Sichuan Restaurant
I travelled around China for two months when I was 21, and always regretted the fact that I didn’t make it to Sichuan. As a self-confessed chilli-addict, this seemed like a huge omission. Hotpots, Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies – what’s not to like?
So when I heard that there was a decent Sichuanese restaurant in Amsterdam, it was first on my list to try. The name might not be too creative, but China Sichuan Restaurant does what it says on the tin. Or rather, it does what it says on the 50-page menu. Not wanting to be outdone by the chef and his ten thousand dishes, the copywriter absolutely went to town: “A bite of Sichuan,” reads one dish, “so Sichuan that your very existence in Amsterdam becomes an illusion.” Christ, it’s almost poetry!Sichuan dumplings – you can’t go wrong with that much chilli!
We kicked off our epic Sichuanese feast with some classic dumplings that were filled with pork and served with a rich oil that was full of spicy Sichuan peppercorns. Things were off to a good start (I was with the creator of Pinch – Amsterdam’s Queen of Dumplings – and even she was impressed).
We then shared four dishes between us – all of which were fabulous in and of themselves, but with hindsight we should’ve been a bit smarter when choosing what to order as they were all high on oiliness and salt. Usually in such situations, I’d ask the waiter/ress to make a suggestion; but in this case that wasn’t an option. Something about freckles and blonde(ish) hair makes people think you’re a chilli newbie and they tend to dumb down the spice levels. Looks can be deceiving, people – just sayin’.
Silken cubes of tofu in the Mapo Tofu
So we tried the fabulously named “Ants on Trees” – a spicy combination of minced pork, glass noodles, spring onions and what I think was seaweed. “Mapo Tofu” was silky and hot from the dried chillies – I liked it more than I thought I would, given that I’m not generally a tofu fan. “Sichuan special hot mixed vegetables” looked like a soup on the menu, but turned out to be a sort of hotpot full of veges (cauliflower, broccoli, cucumber, mushrooms, pak choi and more) in a chilli and pepper-infused oil. Slightly less oily (but still fried) was the Mongolian beef – a dry dish comprising battered, fried beef, peppers, spring onions and (of course) chillies.
Next time I visit Sichuan, I’ll order a couple of the steamed dishes instead and hope to avoid the enormous food crash that happened 30 minutes after consuming my own body weight in oil. But for now, I’ll just leave you with another gem of copy from the menu: “It is said that green onion is the girlfriend, ginger is the brother, garlic the soul mate, and chili the lover; these four natural ingredients make the Chinese cuisine.” I literally want to ask these people for a job.
A veritable chilli-fest: Sichuan vegetable hotpot
Surinamese Food in Amsterdam: Riaz
After my quest to find the best Surinamese food in Amsterdam, I ended up with more recommendations than I did when I was researching the article. One came from Jessica Lipowski, author of Flavors of Life, who had interviewed the owners of Surinamese restaurant Riaz for her book about the immigrant stories of restaurateurs in Amsterdam from across the world.
I was in search of a Surinamese restaurant in which it’s possible to actually sit down (as opposed to just takeaway), and Riaz seemed like it might fit the bill. On arrival, it was a little simpler and more spartan than I’d anticipated (and didn’t serve alcohol) which is useful to know if you’re after a gezellig night out. That being said, although many of our fellow customers were there for takeaway, the tables did start to fill up as the evening wore on.
“Doks” – spicy duck roti at Surinamese restaurant Riaz
We snacked on a vegetarian samosa to start – the flavour was good but the pastry casing a little greasy. I prefer the samosa at Swieti Sranang. We also tried the telo: fried cassava chips with crunchy morsels of bakkeljauw (salt cod) on the side. Again, the flavours were fine but this time the dish was on the dry side.
My main was called “Doks” – essentially a roti dish but with duck. The sauce was good and spicy, the long beans fresh, and the roti bread a perfect scooping tool. The only downside was that the duck had been so badly butchered that you got a mouthful of splintered bones with every bite. My dinner buddy ordered the “Her Herie”, which was new to us both: potato, sweet potato and banana came with spicy salt cod that almost served as a dressing. The flavour was different but in a good way, although I prefer dishes with more sauce to bind the component parts together.
Still, for only €20 each, I can’t complain. I may well be back for a takeaway roti; I just won’t be ordering the dawet drink. Sweeter than a McDonald’s milkshake – bleurgh.
Hawaiian food in Amsterdam: Poké Perfect
Presumably because of their lack of dairy or gluten or something, Hawaiian poké bowls seem to have become the favoured dish of healthy-foodie-Instagrammers. Which is not me. But forgive me for wanting to find out what all the fuss was about.
From what I can make out, a poké bowl is essentially a bed of rice (or, in the case of Poké Perfect on Amsterdam’s Prinsengracht, quinoa or mixed salad leaves) topped with all manner of fresh veges and raw fish. Poké Perfect offers six “specialities” (their own suggestions for combinations of ingredients) but you can also assemble your own. I tried the “Sriracha Spicy Tuna” (a large bowl costs €13.70, while a regular is a couple of euros cheaper) comprising ahi tuna, avocado, carrots, edamame beans, crunchy bits of tempura batter and their so-called “Sriracha Mayo” sauce. The sticky rice tasted weirdly fishy (and not from the tuna); the edamame beans didn’t sing freshness; and the Sriracha Mayo just tasted like mayo – I didn’t get any spiciness at all and ended up drowning the whole bowl in Sriracha and soy sauce. So far, somewhat disappointing.
The painfully on-trend poké bowl from Poké Perfect
But, not wanting to judge a new (to me) food concept on the first attempt, I went back for second helpings. This time around, I tried the “build your own” option with quinoa as the base and toppings of raw salmon, sweet potato, radish, pineapple and toasted almonds. It didn’t look as pretty as the first version (hence I’m not bothering to include a picture) but it tasted five times better. I also got Poké Perfect’s signature “Ponzu Sauce” – I didn’t get a lot of ponzu flavour but there was plenty of dried chilli (which, as you might have guessed by now, is always a plus for me). And a regular sized bowl, which is plenty big enough at lunchtime, only costs €9.80 if you stick to the regular priced toppings. All in all, a much more positive experience.
So Amsterdam, what’s next? Florentine lampredotto? Icelandic fermented shark? Or perhaps an insect-hapjes bar? Come on, surprise me!
I think we can pretty much agree that 2016 was the epitome of a shitty year. Just as we were all starting to get over the sofa-sobbing, miserable stupidity of Brexit (or rather, just as I’d applied for Dutch citizenship), America got jealous and decided to steel back the Crown of Idiocy from the Brits and elect Donald Trump. In the midst of a refugee crisis, no less. And if all that wasn’t bad enough, our childhood heroes were being picked off one by one: if it wasn’t David Bowie it was Prince; and if it wasn’t Alan Rickman it was Muhammad Ali. But all these I could bear with the relative equanimity that generally comes with the death of people you don’t actually know. Then, just when I thought 2016 couldn’t (surely) have much more misery to bestow, it took my hero as well: AA Gill. A wordsmith whose lyricisms about “wedding night thighs” (I believe he was talking about crème caramel at the time) I’ve been plagiarising ever since. AA Gill’s restaurant reviews were to a great extent the inspiration behind why I went into food writing (or really, any writing) to begin with. And as a journalist, I’ll miss him far more than any musician or actor.
With all this being said, 2016 wasn’t so bad when it came to restaurants in the Dutch capital. (Phew, you’re thinking – I was wondering when this woman was going to cheer up…) The Foodhallen Amsterdam opened a bunch of new stalls from tacos to tempura; we all went bonkers for Breda and BBQ; I celebrated 10 years of Amsterdam food; and I published possibly my silliest post ever about weird restaurant toilet signs. (Sorry, but 2016 is one of those years that requires you to laugh in order to prevent yourself from crying.)
Best Restaurants Amsterdam 2016
This year’s top 10 is based purely on my experiences of places I’ve eaten during 2016. Not all of these opened this year – some are new, while some are old favourites. The list is not ranked, nor is it exhaustive (there simply aren’t enough meals in the day for one person to eat at every new restaurant in Amsterdam!). Agree or disagree? Leave a comment!
1. Best newcomer: Breda
I discovered Breda on my fifth anniversary with the Honey Badger, which just so happened to be the day we announced our engagement. So my circumstances were not exactly unbiased, but I can honestly say my meal that night was one of the best I’d tasted in months – if not years. From the runner beans that took me straight back to childhood in my parents’ garden, to the horseradish and wild-garlic dressing that pepped up otherwise-ordinary greens, to the smoky grilled flavour of rib-eye and corn – everything I tasted was spectacular.
The most exquisite plate of greens at Restaurant Breda
2. Best old favourite: A-fusion
As a restaurant critic, I rarely tend to go back to places more than once or twice. I make an exception for A-fusion, which I’ve been regularly frequenting since 2008. An always bustling Asian fusion restaurant in Amsterdam’s Chinatown, I generally leave my dining choices in the hands of the kitchen and simply order the chef’s menu. Whatever they bring is a delight, but I’d recommend adding some steamed oysters and truffle-beef sushi – because you’re worth it.
Lt. Cornelis, a newcomer in 2016, might be located right off the Spui in the heart of tourist-Centrum. And yes, it may have slightly cheesy reproductions of Rembrandts and Vermeers on the walls. But don’t let that put you off trying some of the best, most authentic Dutch food in town. Standout highlights when I visited included the barley risotto with Jerusalem artichokes, BBQ-ed leeks and messenklever cheese; continuing the smoky theme was BBQ-ed spitskool (cabbage) with crispy-skinned cod and parsnip. Dutch food never looked (or tasted) so cool.
Lt. Cornelis: a silky autumnal risotto with BBQ leek, Jerusalem artichoke and messenklever cheese
4. Best modern European food: Kaagman & Kortekaas
Newly opened in 2016, Kaagman & Kortekaas is somewhere I’d happily bring work colleagues for a leaving do, a group of friends for a dinner splurge, or really anyone I wanted to impress with food without the atmosphere being either pretentious or overly romantic. The food is creative and modern, using plenty of local game and seasonal ingredients. Oysters are always on the menu, but the night I dined there the rabbit was a hit at my table!
I’m saying Pendergast is the best BBQ joint outside of the US, but truthfully I’ve had very few BBQ experiences this good anywhere – with the possible exceptions of Memphis, Tennessee and Lockhart, Texas. In any case, Pendergast certainly serves the best ribs in Amsterdam, and possibly the only brisket worth eating in the city. Well, other than my own, of course All the way from Kansas City, the folks at Pendergast know their way around a smoker. And a liquor bar, for that matter. So get your julep on and enjoy the meat-fest.
Pendergast’s food may not make a pretty Instagram picture. But oh lord is it good eating…
6. Best tapas: Pikoteo
I’ve called this category “best tapas”, but that’s perhaps a little misleading. Brought to us by the people who ran Hugo’s (sadly now closed), Pikoteo specialises in a sort of modern, fusion tapas the like of which I’ve not seen before in Amsterdam. And though I don’t love everything on their menu, I appreciate the fact that they’re trying something new. The smoked beef carpaccio with truffle and shaved Idiazabal cheese was my favourite dish when I visited: bold but delicate, pungent but refined, all at the same time. Plus, they have a good wine and cocktail menu.
Pimientos de Padrón and smoked beef carpaccio at Pikoteo
7. Best fixed menu: Reuring
If you like to eat with the seasons and aren’t a picky eater, you’ll love Reuring’s well-priced set menus. The evening I dined there was in autumn, and we gorged on seasonal game – partridge and wild duck – with truffles, pumpkin and kale. The service is excellent, too. A good safe bet for any occasion.
I’d been to Little Collins for brunch many times before (it’s still one of my favourite brunch spots in Amsterdam), but it wasn’t until this year that I first tried it for dinner. The menu encourages you to share “small” plates – but honestly these plates are huge. Which makes dining out at Little Collins pretty good value, too. The international menu offers everything from North African-inspired cauliflower with freekeh to Asian-inspired sticky pork belly. So order one of Little Collins’ signature Bellinis to kick off and settle in for the evening…
Winter has come around again as I write this, and one of the few solaces of knowing I’m going to be wearing a coat for the next five months is the thought of this Utrechtsestraat bistrot’s Alpine comfort food that transports you straight to Switzerland. Think raclette, fondue, tartiflette, charcuterie, and as many calories as you can shake a ski pole at. Don’t forget to take a selfie in the ski lift that’s sitting in the middle of the restaurant!
While researching places to eat with kids (for an article – don’t worry, I’m not up the duff), I accidentally stumbled upon an excellent brunch spot. Dignita might sound like a charity for euthanasia, but in fact it’s a split-level café just off the far end of the Vondelpark. Their eggs are poached to perfection, their coffees are beautifully brewed, and their appeltaart is heavenly spiced. Try Dignita’s courgette and chickpea fritters for a great vegetarian brunch option.
You remember I told you I was writing a series of “FAQ posts” about restaurant tips that readers routinely ask me for? Well, to continue the theme, here’s one I made earlier…
Question: I’m coming to Amsterdam with my team from work/extended family/entire friendship group/insert large-sounding amount of people here. Which restaurants can cater for large groups?
Answer: Well, that depends on your budget and which part of town you’re in… But here are some options.
14 Amsterdam Restaurants for Large Groups from Fining Dining to Cheap Eats
De Kas – Oost, fine dining
In 2015, I celebrated a wedding at de Kas, which proves just how big a group it can cater (there must have been at least 80-100 guests). De Kas literally translates as “the greenhouse” – which means that a) the restaurant is housed in one, and b) all the ingredients used come from it. Or at least, most of them. The rest come from the surrounding gardens and local farms. Very local, very seasonal, very delicious – just quite expensive.
Lion Noir is the kind of place you’d like to go for a high-class hen (bachelorette) party. Its dark decor features impressively masculine antlers, gothic chandeliers, and clientele wearing (wait for it) dresses and heels! Yes, in Amsterdam. It feels ever so slightly debauched without being seedy. And the cocktails are to die for. The last time I ate there it was the night I celebrated my friend’s engagement with the rest of our girlfriends – ideal.
One of Morgan & Mees’s huge selling points is its large, covered, heated terrace. Of course, if it’s warm the cover comes off and you can sun yourself in the sheltered courtyard. But even in winter, you can make good use of the outside space. Inside, there are a couple of different rooms plus a separate bar, making it ideal for groups. Lunches include hearty Caesar salads and variations on eggs Benedict, while dinners are a slightly fancier affair of international dishes that are generally shareable. Plus, Morgan & Mees is a hotel too, so if you have international guests in town you could kill two birds with one stone.
Morgan & Mees, al fresco lunches and classy dinners
Ysbreker – Oost, mid-price
Particularly handy for pre-theatre dinner if you have tickets to the Carré, de Ysbreker serves up a broadly French menu very well. Think charcuterie and rillettes to start, with steak tartare or lamb shank to follow, and perhaps a crème brulee or chocolate truffle for dessert. Ysbreker takes groups of up to 160 people (according to their website!) and it’s the right blend of smart and casual that means you could book it for a work dinner or a friend’s birthday party and it would do the job.
Set apart from the main restaurant downstairs, upstairs at Jacobsz is a huge space with its own bar that could easily be cordoned off into separate sections if needed. The image below shows a long table laid up for 25, but I could imagine a casual walking dinner for 100 guests there no problem. Plus, catering for a large group needn’t mean compromising on food or service. The evening I went (which, admittedly, was just with two of us – not 20), the food was elegant and creative. Think perfectly rare duck breast and pork belly, with a fusion of seasonal flavours alongside. And the smiliest waitress you’ve ever met.
Jacobsz’s upstairs private dining area (Photo credit: Jacobsz)
Mata Hari – Red Light District, mid-price
It’s not often that I recommend places to eat in the Red Light District, but Mata Hari is one I end up sending people to time and time again. They serve good beer and G&Ts, so it’s a good spot for an after-work borrel with colleagues. At dinner, they cook up an international menu that leans occasionally in favour of Middle Eastern mezze but also includes pasta, meat and fish. At lunchtime, you can expect bread and salads, but with far more interesting fillings and toppings than the usual ham and cheese variations. The décor is like a giant, split-level living room; I wouldn’t recommend it for a posh client dinner, but for most casual events it’s a great spot in a fun location.
Any restaurant in Amsterdam Noord is generally bigger than most other restaurants in Amsterdam, because most of them have been built in converted shipyards or warehouses. And Stork is no exception: this fish restaurant used to be an industrial warehouse but now feeds up to 150 people – perhaps more in summer when the huge terrace is open. But of course, your group has to like fish!
Café-Restaurant Amsterdam (which is particularly hard to Google, for obvious reasons) might not be doing the most creative things with food, but it has something for everyone and does most of it well. Think simple steaks with béarnaise sauce and fries, grilled fish, Caesar salad, vitello tonnato, and good affordable wines by the glass. Plus, the place is huge which gives you a high chance of getting a table for a large group, even if you’ve left it a little last-minute.
Despite the name, this restaurant serves a lot more than just burgers. It does, however, have a nice patio for al fresco dining during the summer, and the whole place exudes a sort of Mediterranean vibe… There’s a daily market menu for around €25, or you can choose broadly French and Italian dishes a la carte. For groups of up to 15, you can book via the regular online reservation system. Larger groups are also welcome but menu restrictions do apply.
Dauphine is a veritable institution of a restaurant – a favourite among the business lunch crowd who come up from the Amstel business park every day. It serves classic Caesar salads, crowd-pleasing steaks, smoked salmon with poached eggs, and desserts from Holtkamp. A great option for a corporate lunch or after-work dinner.
The restaurant at Razmataz would fall into the mid-range category, but it also has a lovely separate bar serving eminently shareable (and sizable) snacks at highly reasonable prices. Think creamy bacalao rillettes to spread on bread, charcuterie plates, French cheeses… and they do a lovely Aperol Spritz too. I’ve been here for birthdays, pre-wedding drinks… I even almost hosted my cookbook launch there.
Bierfabriek serves just two things: beer and chicken. The beer, which is brewed in-house at their own micro-brewery, comes in three varieties: a simple but tasty unfiltered pilsner, a richer red ale (my personal favourite) and a dark porter. If you do book as a group of friends, be sure to request one of their self-serve beer taps. Depending on your friends, this could prove slightly dangerous, but a hearty portion of chicken and chips should help soak up the beer effect…
With two locations in Amsterdam (at roughly opposite ends of town), Boca’s is perfect for a casual birthday borrel. You can order huge platters of meat, fish or vegetarian snacks to share, and the standard is consistently of a much higher quality than your average deep-fried borrelhapjes.
I’ve been to Bazar – an enormous converted church on the Albert Cuypstraat – for several group occasions, from hen parties to reunions. The restaurant’s food is a smorgasbord of Middle Eastern and North African dishes, with good-value mezze dishes, kebabs, falafel and more. For groups of 13+ people, some menu restrictions apply – take a look at the website.
Café Kostverloren – Oud West, cheap eats
Claiming to have world-famous burgers and 35 sorts of beer, Café Kostverloren is great for a party. I also remember a very accomplished Caesar salad dressing – which is not something to be sniffed at. If your group outing happens to be taking place at the same time as an important Dutch football match, Kostverloren is a good bet to watch the big game (unless of course you’re trying to avoid it altogether).
This post is written in collaboration with Deepa, author of lifestyle blog Curry Strumpet. She’s a fellow foodie, international Amsterdammer, and – most importantly for the purposes of this post – a great mum.
As a restaurant critic, I get asked the same questions over and over: Where to eat Indonesian food in Amsterdam? Where to dine with a large group? Where to eat on a budget? And most of those questions I can answer pretty readily. Except one: Where can I take my kids to eat in Amsterdam? I have no idea. Literally none. I’ve never wanted kids (I know – burn me at the stake). And, while I love my nephews, nieces and friends’ kids dearly, I tend to avoid children when it comes to going out to eat. However, kids are important for little things like – you know – populating the earth, paying taxes when I’m a pensioner, stuff like that. So I’m happy other people are busy procreating. And I definitely believe that eating out and having kids needn’t be mutually exclusive. I was practically brought up in restaurants, and look how I turned out? Err-hmm.
Anyway, to answer this often-asked and still-unanswered (by me) question, I teamed up with a friend and fellow blogger who actually has a little sprogget of her own – hurrah! In this post, Deepa and I came up with a list of the top 10 child-friendliest places to eat in Amsterdam based on her experiences as a mum and mine as a, umm, greedy person. We’ve featured a possibly disproportionate amount of places to eat brunch and pancakes because (I’ve heard) children are awake at brunch time and like pancakes. You learn something new every day!
Amsterdam Brunch Spots with Kids
Dignita
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: By virtue of its proximity to Vondelpark, the nexus of a great many kiddie classes and activities, Dignita is family central on weekends. Arrive before the brunch rush begins (roughly 12 noon) to score a spot beside the highly coveted, baby-gated play corner. An assortment of lovingly battered toys and books keeps young children occupied until salvation arrives in the form of a decent Bloody Mary. Your giant Bugaboo will fit comfortably beside the couch on the ground floor, while the hipsters escape to the stroller-free mezzanine. Staff are used to dodging wriggly tots while serving up some of the best brunch plates in town. High chairs and changing facilities available.
Dignita’s cougette and chickpea fritters
My verdict on the food: There aren’t many good brunch places in Amsterdam, and Dignita is one of them – kids or no kids. I really enjoyed their chickpea and courgette fritters with fried halloumi, poached egg, avocado, dukkah and a mint-yoghurt dressing. The fritters were moist, the egg perfectly poached, the textures well balanced – all in all, a lovely dish. Their coffees and breakfast cocktails are good too, and even the service is quick. If you are child-free, take Deepa’s advice and escape to the stroller-inaccessible mezzanine level. Read my full review here.
Podium Mozaiek
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: Nothing gets me more excited than a killer brunch and playground combo. About a block from the lovely Wachterliedplantsoen playground and kinderboerderij (petting zoo) in Bos en Lommer, Podium Mozaiek is one of my absolute favourites. Their Turkish breakfast has many different components served in small dishes, so even picky eaters can find something to enjoy. There’s lots of space for strollers both inside and on the terrace; high chairs and changing facilities are available.
My verdict on the food: One of the things I enjoyed most about my trip to Istanbul was the incredible Turkish breakfasts. So, if you’re looking to get your fix in Amsterdam, you’ll be happy to stumble upon Mozaiek. The Turkish brunch I had there included everything from filo-cheese cigars and chorizo skewers to fried halloumi and dozens of dips and toppings for bread. The individual portions weren’t huge, but there were enough of them that you certainly didn’t go hungry for a very reasonable €13.
Drovers Dog
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: Another lovely brunch spot in a very family-friendly neighbourhood, Drovers Dog knows its clientele well. High chairs and a small play corner make this a no-brainer for the young families of the Rivierenbuurt. Their spacious (by Amsterdam standards) terraces hold ample room for strollers when it’s nice enough to sit outside. I haven’t been back in a while (because I never leave my neighbourhood, that’s life as a parent for you), but when we last were there, our daughter loved the ricotta pancakes with blueberries as a special weekend treat.
Drovers Dog’s take on Eggs Benedict
My verdict on the food: The first time I went to Drovers Dog was years ago, and at the time I felt their corn fritters were not a patch on those at Little Collins. However, I went back more recently and they’ve really upped their game. Their take on an Eggs Benedict involved bacon, spinach and toast (as well as eggs and Hollandaise, obviously) but was no less delicious for being untraditional. Their Bloody Mary hit the spot too.
De Bakkerswinkel, Westergasfabriek
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: Being another lazy resident of Westerpark, like Vicky, De Bakkerswinkel is my go-to kid-friendly café. My daughter and I love to wind up here after a morning (or afternoon) spent kicking a ball around, feeding the ducks, and playing with friends at the wonderful public playground at the Samsam daycare in the park. De Bakkerswinkel offers simple breads and spreads for the kids, changing facilities and high chairs, and a small box of toys for babies and toddlers.
My verdict on the food: I like the Bakkerswinkel because it’s right on my doorstep (in the Westerpark – not that I sleep in the park, but you know what I mean) and it has lovely cakes and things. But you need to be a little careful what you order. A slice of quiche (decent quiche, but not amazing quiche) will cost you around €5. But add a slice of bread and a bit of salad and it’ll go up to nearer €10 for very little added value. On the other hand, the sweet stuff is more affordable: for Brits hankering after a taste of home (or really just a taste of nostalgia) you can get tasty scones with jam and clotted cream for just a few euros.
Amsterdam Restaurants for Dinner with Kids
D&A Hummus Bistro
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: My similarly child-saddled friends and I always seem to end up at D&A Hummus Bistro despite the fact that it’s not specifically catered to families. It must be because the staff is so friendly, the food so consistently good, and the atmosphere so homey and welcoming. It can be a bit of an effort to get a full-sized stroller inside, and there are no high chairs. But it’s worth it for a place where young families like us always feel at home. Bonus: you’re right in between a good-sized playground (Noorderspeeltuin on Karthuizerstraat) and Monte Pelmo IJs, the best ice cream in the Jordaan. Congratulations, you’ve just won at parenting.
D&A Hummus Bistro’s “Hummshuka”
My verdict on the food: When I was on the hunt for the best hummus in Amsterdam, D&A Hummus Bistro was right up there. Not only do they know their way around a chickpea; they’re also full of good ideas about how to spice it up with other things. They even serve a “Hummshuka”: yes, that’s shakshuka inside a bowl of hummus. What’s not to love? The pitas are plentiful and the wine flows as well… Read my full review here.
Cafe-Restaurant Amsterdam
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: One of the great mind tricks nature plays on parents is how easily we forget things (this is how we end up having more children). Though I have a child myself, I’m forever asking my fellow parental units where I can drag my offspring (and those of visiting friends) if I want to have a decent dinner. Café-Restaurant Amsterdam always comes up. With high chairs, changing facilities, and plenty of room for strollers and toddlers running rampant, the general consensus places this spot high on kid-friendliness.
My verdict on the food: The un-google-able Café-Restaurant Amsterdam is one of those places that might not be doing the most creative things with food, but it has something for everyone and does most of it well. Think simple steaks with béarnaise sauce and fries, grilled fish, Caesar salad, vitello tonnato, and good affordable wines by the glass. Plus, the place is huge which gives you a high chance of getting a table even if you haven’t made a reservation. Read my full review here.
A-Fusion
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: A-Fusion is another example of a great restaurant that grownups are happy to dine at, but doesn’t specifically cater to families with children, but that I always seem to visit with my child anyway. No high chairs, no changing table, and very little stroller space, but wow, such warm and accommodating service. Our daughter loves the steamed buns, playing around with chopsticks, and dim sum.
Oysters at A-fusion
My verdict on the food: A-Fusion is hands-down one of my favourite restaurants in Amsterdam. I generally get their chef’s menu and let the kitchen surprise me with whatever’s good that day. But I often order an extra steamed oyster or two, just in case they’re not included in the menu… The sushi and dim sum here are both mouth-wateringly good (try the beef truffle nigiri and tell me I’m wrong). A-Fusion broke down every prejudice I had towards Asian fusion food – even back in 2008. If you’ve not yet been, make a reservation tomorrow – just trust me on this one! Read the full review here.
Le 4 Stagioni
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: I was lured away from my neighbourhood by the promise of a child-friendly dining experience. Vicky surprised me with the information that Le 4 Stagioni host kids’ dinnertime at 6 pm where they eat pizza and get to see inside the kitchen—but being brilliantly organized, as all mothers naturally are, I failed to arrive on time for that. Pizza is a no-brainer kiddie meal, but dessert is the show here. When you order the kids’ gelato, your little tot can go into the kitchen and decorate their ice cream cone with sprinkles, marshmallows, and all the things you’ve been trying to keep them away from all day. If you don’t mind a mad sugar rush afterwards, it’s very cute, and a (literally) sweet gesture meant to make families and kids feel welcome.
Kids get the VIP gelato treatment at Le 4 Stagioni (Photo credit: Curry Strumpet)
My verdict on the food: Le 4 Stagioni was the only restaurant on this list I visited actually because of its child-friendliness. Deepa and I made a date to check this pizza joint out with her daughter and husband a couple of weeks ago. After a bit of a wait (this place is clearly popular with the Oud-Zuid mums and dads), we were seated and looking at the menu. While hubby went for the risotto, Deepa and I both ordered pizzas and her daughter ate a couple of slices. I preferred her Robusta with pancetta and gorgonzola to my Baita. The latter was a white pizza with Italian sausage, radicchio, stracchino, mozzarella and olives. The mozzarella was excellent, the black olives less so. I regretted ordering a white pizza, but that was my own fault, not Le 4 Stagioni’s. Would I make the trek to Oud-Zuid without kids just for the pizza? I doubt it.
Amsterdam Pancake Restaurants with Kids
Pancakes!
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: I’ve resorted to pancakes as bribery more than once in my brief career as a parent, something that I can admit to freely and without shame. We like the pancakes at Pancakes! (ooh, so perky) much better than at nearby The Pancake Bakery. Pancakes! has only a high chair but no changing facilities, and it’s a teeny tiny space with no room for strollers or buggies—so families with older kids will fare better. Babies probably shouldn’t be having pancakes anyway.
Note from the editor: Pancakes! have since got in touch with us to let us know about their other locations: they’re now in the Negen Straatjes, next to Centraal Station and by the Westermarkt – the latter looks to have much more space and a changing room. Hurrah!
Weird and wonderful pancakes at Pancakes!
My verdict on the food: Everyone loves pancakes, child or adult. And I particularly enjoy the weird and wonderful toppings on offer at Pancakes! (with that annoying exclamation mark). I tried one of the house specials: camembert, ham, chicory and raspberry sauce, while my other half went for a sweet-n-savoury combo of bacon, bananas and chilli. They both sound very odd to anyone who grew up on English pancakes (sugar and lemon were about as exciting as they got in my house), French crepes (although you can’t beat a Nutella crepe) or fat American blueberry pancakes. But they’re totally moreish so don’t knock ‘em till you’ve tried ‘em.
Amsterdamse Bos – Pannekoeken Boerderij Meerzicht and Ridammerhoeve goat farm
Deepa’s verdict on child-friendliness: Welcome to child-friendly paradise. The pannekoeken restaurant and goat farm in the Amsterdamse Bos is one of my favourite “lazy parenting” weekend outings. If you make the trek out, you’ll be rewarded with some of the best pancakes in Amsterdam, plus an amazing goat farm, playground, and petting zoo. It feels like a day trip without really leaving the city. What’s not to love?
My verdict on the food: More pancakes – this time in the Amsterdamse Bos (forest). And as anyone who’s ever spent five minutes with a child knows, having outdoor space for them to run around is of the utmost importance. At the Ridammerhoeve goat farm, I particularly appreciate the fact that you can buy goat’s cheese right from the farm – as local as it gets. It teaches kids where cheese comes from, and they can even eat goat’s milk ice cream!
Phew. So the Dutch national election came and went, and Geert Wilders won far fewer seats than all us Amsterdammers feared. I like to think I played a role in this by writing about how bereft Dutch food would be without culinary influences from Muslim countries in the Middle East and North Africa. But, realistically, the readers of DutchNews.nl are probably all expats like me who don’t get a vote anyway. Still, it matters not – the result was a good one and “doe normaal” service has resumed.
However, as a result of writing the DutchNews article, I did notice the proliferation of international restaurants in de Pijp area – most of which are surprisingly good value. From Turkish to tacos, and from Indian to Ethiopian, de Pijp is home to a global gamut of foodie finds. None of which will break the bank. Hurrah for immigration!
International budget restaurants de Pijp
Balti House – Indian
Balti House had been on my to-eat list for literally years, and I finally made it there on a recent rainy Monday night. I wasn’t disappointed. It seemed rude not to order the balti, given the name of the place, and our chicken balti was rich with warm spices yet fresh with red peppers and onions. The prawn madras was properly hot ‘n spicy, which was excellent for a chilli fiend like me. Plus, the naan bread was cloud-fluffy and made an ideal sauce-dipping tool. With a couple of Cobra beers each, our meal came to €50 for two.
Chicken balti and prawn madras at Balti House
Couscous Club – North African
Ever since a friend of mine invited me over for a disastrous meal of “student couscous” (which resulted in us abandoning ship and getting Thai takeout from Rakang instead), I’ve associated couscous with a student budget. And with good reason: it’s cheap, hearty and very versatile. At the Ceintuurbaan’s Couscous Club, chef Wouter serves up three types of this North African grain: couscous with vegetables and lentil sauce; couscous with merguez sausages; or “royal” couscous with one merguez sausage, one lamb kebab and beef stew (my couscous of choice). The generous, one-pot dishes cost between €9 and €15, while a bottle of house wine costs €18. If you’re feeling flash, he’ll even mix you a (rather sweet) Mojito for €7.
The “royal” couscous at the Couscous Club
Taco Cartel – Mexican
Disclaimer alert: I was invited to Taco Cartel by a PR agency, but it looked like the food we were eating was the same as the normal menu so I think I can make a relatively objective assessment of it. Also because I’ve eaten a lot of tacos. In fact, this will officially be the eighth taco bar in Amsterdam that has come under my scrutiny, so I’m starting to get pretty picky. Taco Cartel offers seven different types of taco – mostly meaty, with a couple of veggie versions and one fish option. My favourites were the crispy-fried chicken with mango salsa and corn, and the baja skifabay – battered fish, guacamole, pico de gallo and more of that yummy mango salsa. I’m not sure how authentically Mexican they were (but what is?), though they get top marks for flavour. The vegetarian (sweet potato, asparagus and black bean) and al pastor (spicy pork and pineapple) were pretty decent too, but I was less impressed with the meat that required slow-cooking. Beef chipotle was disappointingly lacking in that crucial chipotle, while lime chicken stew was just a bit… meh. Still, for €8 for two decidedly large tacos or €9 for a huge burrito, you can’t really complain. And they keep the Coronas coming, too…
Fish tacos at Taco Cartel
Maydanoz – Turkish
I’m not sure whether Maydanoz really falls into the budget category, but if you stick to the extensive mezze selection and the house wine then you can probably get away without spending too much. On the mezze menu the night I was there: cacik (yoghurt with cucumber and dill), hummus and baba ganoush (both of which were very accomplished versions of themselves), cheese “cigars”, fried meaty “torpedoes”, and my favourite: ispanak, braised spinach with pepper, tomatoes, pine nuts and raisins. If you have a bit more to spend, their grilled meats are good too: perfectly cooked and with a tasty BBQ char from the grill.
Turkish mezze at Maydanoz
Also in the category of cheap eats/budget restaurants in de Pijp…
Spaghetteria – Now with three locations in Amsterdam plus a cookbook, Spaghetteria serves up deceptively simple but delicious Italian pasta dishes for very reasonable prices. Their wines are good, too. Read my full review of Spahetteria.
Pho 91 – Often with queues out the door, Pho 91 serves predominantly (you’ve guessed it) pho: fragrant Vietnamese noodle soup, generally with beef in various forms. Read my full review of Pho 91.
Warung Spang Makandra – On the plus side, Spang Makandra serves excellent Surinamese roti and almost everything on the menu costs less than €10. On the down side, they don’t take reservations, nor do they serve alcohol. Read my full review of Warung Spang Makandra.
Azmarino – Serving up enormous platters of Ethiopian/Eritrean fare on those giant, slightly sour injera pancakes, Azmarino has been doing its thing for yonks. The food here is cheap but colourful: darkly marinated chicken drumsticks, green spinach, pastes of pulses and yellow spices, bright flecks of salad… Read my full review of Azmarino.
De Japanner – The first Japanese, late-night, street-food joint in Amsterdam, de Japanner serves great small plates to share. Think chicken katsu, gyoza, California rolls and salmon tataki. Read my full review of de Japanner.
Omelegg – It’s one of my biggest pet peeves, not being able to get a decent omelette in Amsterdam. And Omelegg is one of the rare exceptions: whether you’re hungover or just hungry, a huge mound of eggs stuffed with everything from sausage to cheese to veggies is sure to set you right. And they now have a second location in the centre of town, too. Read my full review of Omelegg.
Spring has officially sprung. The Westerpark’s trees are in blossom, the clocks have gone forward, the temperature has been consistently in double figures for at least a week… All that’s left is to dust the winter off my grill and spring will have morphed into my favourite time of year: BBQ season! I’ve only been properly grilling in Amsterdam for the past two summers because I didn’t have any outdoor space until 2015. Since then, however, barbecuing has become our favourite weekend hobby, so it’s time to answer the seriously tasty questions: Where to buy BBQ supplies in Amsterdam? What to quick-cook on your BBQ and what to grill low and slow? Which Amsterdam parks can you BBQ in? And where can you get decent BBQ in Amsterdam if you don’t have the time or the balcony space to do it yourself? I present: The Ultimate Amsterdam BBQ Guide. Over the coming weeks, I’ll be answering all these questions and more in this multi-part guide. Happy grilling!
Where to Buy BBQ Supplies in Amsterdam
To get set up as a grill master, you’re going to need a grill. We chose a charcoal BBQ because we like cooking rituals that take ages and make you messy (we also think the food tastes better). But if you’d like a little less faff (and especially if you have kids), feel free to go gas – it’s quicker and cleaner. If you do get a charcoal grill, you’re going to want a chimney: it’s basically a metal cone in which you can stack your coals, light the bottom of them, wait 5-10 mins for most of them to catch, and then dump them out into your grill. Much, much more effective than any other lighting method.
A note about charcoal: some people prefer the charcoal that looks like chunks of burnt wood. Personally, I find that stuff burns too quickly and is more liable to break off into small flakes that can make your food sooty and your deck dirty. I prefer charcoal briquettes, which sort of look like cookies of compressed coal. They burn for longer and are a bit less messy. Whatever you do, don’t buy the “quick-light” charcoal. It’s full of chemicals, and if you’re not careful to burn them all off, they’re going straight into your dinner. You can tell just by the smell that they’re bad news.
Intratuin
I’ve always loved a good garden centre, despite not being remotely green-fingered. I think it’s the smell. Anyway, discovering there was something in garden centres that I could actually do – namely, BBQ – made them all the better. Intratuin sells several good gas and charcoal grills, as well as all the wood chips, charcoal/briquettes, BBQ gloves, grilling equipment and general paraphernalia you could ever need. It’s not cheap, but it’s good quality, and the people doing the customer service are knowledgeable too.
Grilled steak and asparagus make great spring BBQ fare
Barbecueshop
Admittedly, I’ve only recently come across Barbecueshop, but it calls itself the biggest BBQ store in the Netherlands, and my grill-master friend Jeroen bought his BBQ there because it was competitively priced, which is good enough for me. They not only sell grills and grilling equipment; they also sell meat! (Though I’m not sure of the quality yet.)
Whatever you plan to cook and whichever grill you plan to cook it on, do yourself a favour and buy an iGrill; it was literally life-changing for us. This high-tech digital thermometer comes with two temperature probes (but it’s a good idea to buy extras) that you can use to monitor the temperature of your food throughout the entire cook. Just stick the probe into your meat or fish at the start, tell the iGrill what it is you’re cooking (e.g. salmon steak, Boston Butt), and let the app on your phone/tablet tell you when it’s up to temperature. You can also set a temperature yourself – so if you want to check in on a low and slow cook part-way through (for example, so you can wrap it, a la Texas Crutch), the iGrill makes all that very easy as well. Plus, the ambient probe means you can keep your grill at one steady temperature for a long time: set parameters for the maximum and minimum temperature of your BBQ, and the iGrill will alert you when you need to open vents or add more coals. It really is genius, and makes the whole cooking process much more relaxing – so you can stand around drinking beer and listening to country music instead of taking the lid off your BBQ every five minutes. Which, by the way, is a bad idea. In the words of the experts: “If you’re lookin’, you ain’t cookin’.”
Although their BBQ range is less extensive than Intratuin’s, Gamma still sells good charcoal, briquettes, gas canisters and chimneys. Good for re-stocking your supplies between grill sessions. There are three Gamma stores in Amsterdam, the most central of which is on the Nieuwe Hemweg near Westerpark.
Beef & Steak
If you’re already thinking about your weekend BBQ plans on a Monday (or even on a Thursday), then your best bet may be to order your meat online – especially if you’re looking for a large cut. We’ve tried Beef & Steak’s Boston Butt (to make pulled pork), beef brisket (video below), pork ribs, and various forms of steak – with good experiences every time.
In summer, a lot of Dutch supermarkets seem to sell cheap charcoal and briquettes. This stuff is fine for shorter cooks; for longer cooks, I’d recommend better quality briquettes. When it comes to the meat, fish and veges to throw on your barbie, not all supermarkets are created equal. If you aren’t able to get to your local butcher, we’ve found that the meat (especially the steak) at Jumbo is superior to that at Albert Heijn. I’m not always sure Marqt is worth the extra money…
BBQ & Gourmet
If all else fails and your grilling skills turn out to leave a little to be desired, you can always order in BBQ. In fact, this might be a good option in any case if you have a large party of people coming over and don’t want to spend your entire time getting smoke in your eyes. Disclaimer: I’ve not actually tried BBQ & Gourmet, but they seem to be the only one of their kind offering BBQ catering to large groups. And that can’t be a bad thing!
Visit BBQ & Gourmet’s website here.
Every student who’s bought a disposable BBQ has flamed the sh*t out of a bunch of sausages and burgers. Since then, you’ve probably learnt to let the coals cool off a bit before throwing on your meat. You don’t need my help for the basics, and there are plenty of recipes out there for perfect burgers, not to mention videos about how to grill steaks. So, for part 2 of my Amsterdam Barbecue Guide (part 1 was about BBQ shops and supplies in Amsterdam), I’m here to inspire you with a few BBQ dishes that you might not have tried before. Some are simple but delicious, others more time-consuming and complex. Whichever you choose to try, I hope you find these unique BBQ recipes as rewarding to cook (and to eat) as I do!
5 Unique BBQ Recipes to Up Your Grilling Game (including 2 “how-to” videos!)
Salmon on a Plank
It was in Louisiana that a guy taught me the simple but effective technique of throwing a tablespoon of dark soy sauce, a tablespoon of brown sugar, and a tablespoon of oil into a plastic bag. After massaging the ingredients together a bit, he then put a side of salmon into the bag and left it to marinate for an hour or so. Meanwhile, my mother-in-law-to-be got me into the fun that is cooking on planks of wood. For this, you’ll need a plank of cedar (or another fragrant but untreated wooden plank) that’s at least as long and wide as your piece of salmon. Soak it in cold water for 30 minutes, and then heat it up for 10 minutes over a medium grill. Flip it over so that the side that was in contact with the heat is now face-up, and place your salmon carefully on top (skin side down). Put the salmon plank back on the BBQ for around 20 minutes, until the fish is just cooked and flakes away fairly easily (pro tip: get yourself an iGrill so you know exactly when your food is up to temperature). This dish is a halfway house between smoked salmon and regular salmon – lightly smoky and delicious!
A note about wood planks: I’ve only ever done this with the wood planks available from specific BBQ supply shops. It may be possible with a regular plank of wood from your local garden, but I’m not recommending it!
Foreground: Salmon on a Plank. Background: Cauliflower Steaks
Cauliflower Steaks
If you’re entertaining vegetarian guests, or if you’d like to add a healthy extra element to your BBQ, cauliflower “steaks” are the way forward. One medium-large cauliflower makes four steaks (two larger ones, and two that may or may not fall apart into individual florets) if you cut it length-ways through the stalk. Rub each steak with olive oil and your favourite BBQ rub, and throw them over a high-ish heat for 20 minutes. Check on them regularly to make sure they’re getting charred, not burnt – the difference is crucial!
Brisket
If you’re the kind of person who likes to turn one meal into an entire weekend project, then it might just be your lucky day. You’ll need to order your brisket a few days in advance (try Barbecueshop.nl or Beef & Steak), start preparing it the night before, and be up bright and early to get your grill going the next morning. But it’s worth it – and besides, there’s always beer to keep you company during the stall. We made this video about how to cook beef brisket since it takes rather a lot of steps – stay tuned till the end for the recipes. (By the way, we injected our brisket, but in the end I felt it wasn’t necessary and would recommend leaving that step out.)
The iGrill in action on our beef brisket
Pulled Pork
Just like the brisket above, cooking a Boston Butt take a looooong time – especially when your BBQ gets rained on, which is what happened to us. But again, extremely worth it – especially when you mix your freshly pulled pork with a little homemade BBQ sauce. Again, our video on how to cook pulled pork is available here, with recipes at the end!
Hot Poppers
One for the chilli fiends, which means you might want to wear rubber gloves to make these (especially if you wear contact lenses – ouch). First, mix up a cheesy filling: I use a tub of cream cheese and a handful or two of grated Dutch oude kaas, but mature cheddar would work too. Next, fry off a couple of sliced onions until they’re sweet and caramelised. Now comes the chilli bit: take the stalks off around 12 fresh green jalapeños and cut them in half length-ways (this will make 24 poppers). Scoop out the seeds – this is where the gloves come in – and fill each jalapeño half with a teaspoon of the cheese mixture. Top with the caramelised onions, and wrap the entire thing in a rasher of streaky bacon. Chill for at least an hour.
When you’re ready to cook, dust the poppers with some of your favourite rub and carefully place each one onto your BBQ, with the chilli on the bottom so that the cheese is at less risk of leaking out. Cook over a medium grill (approx. 150 degrees C) ideally with some wood chips for about an hour until the bacon is crispy, the peppers semi-soft, and the cheese slightly melted. Hot-damn, these are good!
Recipe adapted from Wicked Good Barbecue by Andy Husbands, Chris Hart and Andrea Pyenson.
If you happen to live in an Amsterdam apartment with no outdoor space, barbecuing can be a challenge. I should know – I fell into that category for eight years. Lighting up a portable grill in one of Amsterdam’s parks may seem like a good idea, but barbecuing in one of Europe’s most densely populated cities is not always that simple. In recent years, the gemeente has banned BBQs in certain Amsterdam parks, and in others has put regulations in place that only allow barbecuing your food in special locations. I’m not thrilled about this, but safety first ‘n all that. The law is the law, and it’s worth being aware of it. So, for part 3 of this Amsterdam BBQ Guide, let’s get straight to the nitty gritty…
Which Amsterdam parks allow BBQs?
Ribs ‘n corn – where to BBQ in your local Amsterdam park!
Amsterdam parks that allow BBQs
Hurrah, it’s time to fire up your portable BBQ! But only in these parks:
Rembrandtpark
Oosterpark
Frankendaelpark
Noorderpark
Amsterdamse Bos
Amsterdam parks that have banned BBQs
It’s sad but true: there’s no more grilling at these parks…
Vondelpark
Sarphatipark
Beatrixpark
Amstelpark
Amsterdam parks that permit BBQs in designated places
In my local park (the Westerpark), there are permanent BBQ grills that you can use to cook al fresco. But get in early – they’re understandably popular! The following parks have designation BBQ areas:
Westerpark
Erasmuspark
Flevopark
Of course, regulations can change, and although this information is correct as far as I know right now (May 2017), I take no responsibility or liability for anyone choosing to BBQ in one of the Amsterdam parks mentioned above. The City of Amsterdam provides a handy interactive BBQ map on their website.
When I started Vegetarian January, I promised I’d write a complete guide to vegetarian Amsterdam at the end of the month. Of course, that didn’t happen – but there are good reasons why. I discovered so many veggie restaurants during my research that it took me far longer than a month to get around to eating at them all. Still now, I keep hearing about new restaurants popping up, but I’ve got to stop somewhere and write this thing, so here goes. Let’s call it a working document – I’ll keep adding to it as and when I find new vegetarian gems.
With all this being said, my list is not that long. That’s because it’s not supposed to be an exhaustive list of ALL vegetarian restaurants in Amsterdam – it’s meant just to cover the BEST vegetarian restaurants in the city. It’s also written by a confirmed meat eater; I’m not judging these places as vegetarian restaurants – I’m judging them as restaurants, full-stop. So while there are plenty of other blogs and sites out there covering 20+ veggie places, I’m not convinced of their quality. These are my personal recommendations – places I’d send discerning foodies, whether vegetarians or meat eaters. If you have other suggestions, leave them in the comments!
Best Vegetarian Amsterdam Restaurants
Betty’s
There are very few restaurants I’ll bike 7 km to get to in the freezing cold, and Betty’s is one of them. It’s on the Rijnstraat, which isn’t so far out of town if you live in the south, but if you’re coming from my area (Westerpark) it’s a bit of a trek. Once you get there, however, you’ll be greeted by the friendly couple who run the place – the woman is the chef, her other half is front of house. As far as I recall, there’s no menu – you simply let them know if there’s anything you don’t eat and wait to be surprised. The food I ate there was a fusion of many different styles of cuisine, but all vegetarian and mostly vegan too. Think shareable antipasti, spicy dal and rice, pickled root salads, and the most indulgent (non-vegan) desserts. It’s the kind of place where you want to order a bottle of wine, get comfy, and stick around all evening.
I’d biked past Golden Temple on the Utrechtsestraat dozens of times before I went in. It looks like a hippie kinda place, and I guess in a way it is – you could well be eating your dinner on a sheepskin rug with a small dog curled up next to you. But the food is something even us meat-eating folk can get on board with. I really liked their Mexican tacos, filled with beans, sweet potato, guacamole and salsa – they were fresh, citrusy and brimming with flavour. The Indian thali wasn’t bad either, although if you’re after authentic vegetarian Indian cuisine in Amsterdam you should probably go to Saravana Bhavan…
Which brings us onto some of the best Indian food in Amsterdam. Saravana Bhavan is a global chain of Indian restaurants, although I think there’s only one in Holland. The décor is bright and spartan, which means the ambience isn’t great. But the dosas make up for it. If you’ve never had a dosa before (or even if you have), this is the place to try one: enormous crepe-like discs are filled with everything from cheese to potatoes to lentils. One of those to yourself would probably fill you up till your next meal for just a few euros. But if you do have room left (I suggest sharing), order one of the thalis for a full gamut of Indian flavours.
Another veggie spot worth the bike ride is Marits Eetkamer in Amsterdam Oost, which is just what it sounds like it should be: the living/dining room in the ground floor of someone’s house – Marit’s house, that is. Which is why it’s not open every day – just a couple of evenings a week. Much like at Betty’s, there are very few menu options: your starter might be a choice of salad or soup (both excellent, when I was there); the main might be a bean cassoulet, and the dessert might be a cheesecake. She has a small but decent wine list and an intimate atmosphere. If I wanted to impress a vegetarian date, I’d take them here.
Marit’s dreamy chocolate cheesecake. Because we’re all worth it.
De Culinaire Werkplaats
Blurring the boundaries between food and art is De Culinaire Werkplaats – a creative culinary space just south of the Westerpark that aims to define “the dinner plate of the future”. Again only open a few nights a week, the restaurant bases its dishes around a theme that changes every couple of months. When we were there, the theme was Dutch Flower Power, and co-owners Marjolein and Eric had put their creativity to work coming up with dishes that were either made of flowers or represented flowers in some way. I loved the black risotto that was made with as many dark-coloured ingredients as possible (although not squid ink, for obvious reasons) and represented the famous black tulip. De Culinaire Werkplaats is not cheap, but it’s a fascinating experience worth paying for.
Dutch Flower Power was the theme of the season at De Culinaire Werkplaats
Olive & Cookie
Three words: chocolate mascarpone torte. And this from the woman without a sweet tooth. Yes, their chocolate dessert is to die for, but their savoury food is pretty good too. In an unassuming but colourful little spot in de Pijp, Olive & Cookie serves up fabulous salads and hot meals inspired by the owners’ southeast European roots: they’re from Croatia and Serbia originally. I cannot get enough of their polenta cakes with roasted sweet peppers, mascarpone and parmesan.
Other vegetarian food in Amsterdam that deserves a mention
These aren’t exactly restaurants – they’re products, services, cafés or pop-ups. But they’ll all make your vegetarian day a tastier one!
Café Sage
A café that’s part of a yoga studio that’s in a park (Amsterdam multi-tasking at its best), Café Sage serves healthy, homemade, vegetarian breakfasts and light lunch dishes all week long, opening in the evenings Thursday – Sunday as well. Their avocado on sourdough with spinach, ricotta, and hummus was just what my hangover ordered one sunny Sunday last month. They make good freshly pressed juices, too. Sit outside on Café Sage’s terrace, just inside the Westerpark, for an almost rural experience.
Along similar lines, Juice by Nature on the Warmoesstraat is a juice-bar-cum-health-food-café that’s presumably seeking to turn the Red Light tourists away from the snack bars to something a little more wholesome. The food is pre-made (but on the premises) not cooked to order, so it doesn’t look quite as appetising as the Instagrammable plates you see elsewhere. However, it’s no less flavoursome for it: I tried the courgette noodles with fresh pesto, spinach and seeds. It was delicious, although I’d have liked twice as much again. Disclaimer: I did spot chicken in one or two of their dishes, but their offering is 80% vegetarian.
Courgette spaghetti at Juice by Nature
Morris & Bella
A newcomer to the Spaarndammerbuurt, Morris & Bella has an interesting concept: all dishes are vegetarian to start with, but you can add a meat or fish “supplement” for an additional fee. Of course, the meat and fish options have been especially chosen to work with that particular dish, but because you know that the veggie version stands alone (and also because you know you’re paying extra to be a carnivore) you think twice about ordering the supplements. The evening I dined there, I loved the starter of fresh peas and root vegetables with butter-bean purée and pea juice – it felt very clean, while still hitting the spot. My tussengerecht was cabbage rolls stuffed with carrot and leeks, and served with a curried lentil and mustard seed dressing – delicious even without the addition of braised beef. The only supplement I did pick was for the main: red mullet with crushed potatoes, roasted onions and leeks, and a jus made from kohlrabi. Despite (or perhaps because of?) the fish addition, it was my least favourite dish – it seemed somehow blander than the others. Although I still very much enjoyed the meal and wines overall.
Morris & Bella: vegetarian by design; supplemented by meat or fish
Cropbox
Not a permanent venue but a delivery service, Cropbox delivers healthy vegan lunch boxes Tuesday through Thursday straight to your door (or, more realistically, to your office). Owner Dominique is not only inspired by what’s in season – she also takes her inspiration from interesting Amsterdammers she meets. You can read her “Edible Stories” online before having a taste of whoever’s being interviewed that week (including yours truly!). I’ve tried a few of Cropbox’s lunches, and every time they’ve been packed with interesting ingredients, original dressings, and excellent alternatives to the usual kaas broodjes that are a staple on so many Dutch office workers’ desks.
We’re venturing back into sticky territory here, because Fento isn’t technically vegetarian. But owner Hilary offers so many plant-based dishes that I feel it essentially qualifies. With a stand in the Foodhallen, Fento is the place to stop by for Mexican-inspired veggie street-food: think tostadas, nachos and so on – but all using impeccably fresh, healthy ingredients, and rarely with any meat in sight.
Again, CRAVE isn’t technically all-veggie, but so many of its salads are vegetarian that I think it’s worth a mention. CRAVE originally made its debut at the Neighbourfood Market (like many other successful food brands in Amsterdam), and now sells its signature hearty, nutrient-packed, grain-based salads at Marqt. At lunchtime, they’re great by themselves; at dinnertime, you can easily turn them into a bigger meal by adding some meat or fish (sorry, I realise that’s not really the point of this article) or some goat’s cheese and roasted veggies (which is what I did during Vegetarian January).
Three of Crave’s vegetarian salads
Vegetarian places I’ve been that didn’t make the cut…
Just for the record, I’ve eaten at all these but decided not to include them in my list for various reasons: Café de Ceuvel (nice atmosphere but their veggie burger was nothing special), Spirit (good food but it’s buffet-style and the atmosphere is rather cold), Meatless District (not worth your time or money, in my opinion), Roots (the most overpriced, under-flavoured sandwiches and smoothies in town), Waaghals (the plates just seemed… confused), Bolhoed (hit-and-miss food, very hippie vibe), Dophert (fine for salads and sandwiches, just don’t try the vegan breakfast), and Lavinia Good Food (brunch dishes were quite nice but overpriced for the portion size). You can find detailed write-ups of all but the last of these in my restaurant reviews.
Many of you know of my ongoing dilemmas when it comes to monetizing this blog without selling my soul to the sponsored-post devil. Probably fewer of you know that I once made an Amsterdam gastronomic walking tour app with the help of GPSmyCity. I’ve now decided to take my foodie travel articles one step further by creating a travel guide app series that users of GPSmyCity can download for free and then upgrade to use offline with GPS navigation for a small fee. And yup, a few of those cents go into my pocket to help pay for the upkeep of this restaurant and travel blog. Seems to me like a win-win.
What are the benefits of a travel guide app?
You probably read travel articles online all the time. But if you want to use that information when you get to your destination, you need to a) get online abroad (=expensive), and b) look up all of the suggested restaurants/bars/sights on a map to find them. With a travel guide app, all of that content is available offline, and GPS coordinates embedded in the app will guide you to the different places the author (in this case: me!) recommends.
How does a travel guide app work?
GPSmyCity offers thousands of travel article apps in over 1,000 cities, and I’ve so far created 23 of them – several covering Amsterdam, but others covering my foodie travels in Portugal, Italy, Spain, Turkey, the UK, the US and South Africa. Each article is a separate app that you can download for free so you can access it offline. For a GPS-guided map showing all the restaurants, bars and other points of interest, you can simply upgrade for $1.99.
There are two ways to access travel guide apps on your IOS or Android device:
Click on the link at the end of a blog post that has been turned into an app – if you haven’t already downloaded the free GPSmyCity app you will be prompted to do so via the iTunes or Google Play stores.
Once you have the GPSmyCity app, browse by city to see which articles are available.
My New York foodie travel guide on GPSmyCity
What’s this giveaway all about?
During the first week of the launch, from 17-23 July 2017, GPSmyCity will be giving away the following five travel guide apps on the iTunes store, which means you’ll be able to upgrade for FREE!
Simply click on one of the foodie guides above and follow the instructions to download the GPSmyCity app. You will then be taken to the page for the article app – click on “Upgrade” and the app will be automatically linked to an offline map and the GPS navigator.
Which other travel articles are available as GPS-guided apps?
In addition to the five above, the following foodie travel guides and articles are also available to download as apps from GPSmyCity:
My favourite moment of the day is somewhere around 6.30 pm, when work is finished, it’s not yet time for dinner, and the kitchen is filled with the familiar glug-glug-glug sound of a just-opened bottle of wine being poured. If I’m at home, it’ll perhaps be accompanied by some cheese and biscuits or slices of chorizo; if I’m out, it might be beer and bitterballen, or G&T and olives. Either way, this first-drink-of-the-day meets early-evening snacks moment has a name in our house: Hapje Hour – which, incidentally, will be the name of my bar if the Honey Badger and I ever open one.
The Italians call this aperitivo, and they do it spectacularly well. I’m not sure what the Spanish call it, but the same principle applies with tapas. The Dutch have their borrelhapjes, of course, but there’s room to branch out from the deep-fried snacks and blocks of cheese – as moreish with mustard as they may be. And Amsterdam – with its work-life balance that means most people leave work at a sensible time – is finally starting to get on board with this. More and more restaurants, bars and cafés are starting to offer small shareable bites with drinks, and the quality and inventiveness of the food is going up in parallel. Here are just a few I’ve discovered recently…
El Hermano de Kique
I was sad when Alex from Trela Plein upped sticks and went back to Greece. But my sadness abated when I learned that the venue would be taken over by the guys who run our local wine shop: Jacqwijn. For reasons best known to themselves, they decided to rename it El Hermano de Kique (who Kique is I have no idea – nor do I know who Jacq is for that matter) and open a Manzanilla and tapas bar. I’m not a huge fan of Manzanilla (which is a type of dry sherry that gives me unfortunate flashbacks to oxidised wine) but they serve dozens of regular wines too, so I’m not complaining.
Wine hour at El Hermano de Kique
We ordered a Sardinian red I’d never heard of and settled in for some jamón, cheese, olives, beetroot salad, and rillettes to start with. Unlike many tapas bars in Amsterdam, the plates are small and cheap – so it’s possible to try quite a few different dishes even if there are only two of you. AF tip: if you order the rillettes, get a portion of bread too. For some reason, it’s not served with bread (although there is a bowl of mini breadsticks on every table) and my inner French person feels it needs it.
From there, we moved onto warm dishes: squid stuffed with roasted red peppers (excellent), and chicken skewers with a bulgur wheat and roasted tomato salad. While the chicken was moist and tasty, the salad was served fridge-cold, which detracted from the flavour of the sweet tomato and mild spices. Sweet-and-sour glazed eel came with just-pickled carrots – an umami bomb.
Beetroot and feta salad at El Hermano de Kique… but who the hell is Kique?!
We made a night of it and spent about €40 each, but the nice thing about El Hermano de Kique is that it would be equally possible to pop in for one glass of wine and a hapje for under €10. Oh, and did I mention it’s on my street? Score.
Primi
Flying the flag for aperitivo o’clock is Primi, where the friendly Italian guys offer free snacks with your drinks between around 5.30 and 7.30 pm every day. I tried their Aperol Spritz (refreshing as ever) and their Smoky Margarita (a little low on tequila/lime hit for me) and tucked into a board laden with olives, nuts, marinated artichokes, creamy little basil tarts and (my favourites) tiny pizza pockets stuffed with oozing mozzarella and a smidge of tomato sauce. The evening was off to a flying start.
Aperitivo o’clock at Primi
Not stopping there, we ordered various antipasti to share: arancini (fried balls of risotto) were tasty – but not quite as good as the arancini I had at Fa Pekelhaaring last week. We also tried the excellent burrata, which was served with a sort of cold pea soup – I’m not sure the lack of acidity quite worked, but I applauded Primi’s efforts to serve the creamy cheese with something other than tomatoes and basil. Aubergine parmigiana was triumphant, however.
We were fairly full by this point, but determined to try some pasta dishes nonetheless. The Honey Badger’s carbonara was made with genuine guanciale and (surprisingly) a creamy sauce. On the way back to our bikes later, I started down the “in Rome it’s only made with egg, not cream” route, to which he replied: “you’re always moaning that Italians are puritans about their food and never experiment – well, this tasted good so who cares if it’s not the typical Roman recipe?” Fair point. My friend’s tagliatelle with stewed wintry lamb shank was equally tasty, if a little heavy on the cinnamon. And my gnocchi was perfectly fresh and pillowy, served with spicy ‘nduja, crumbled pistachio nuts, and ricotta cheese that had a surprising kick. Delicious.
Gnocchi with ‘nduja, pistachio and ricotta
With two bottles of upper-end Italian wine, free shots of Limoncello and a couple of desserts to share between the six of us, dinner came to around €60 each. Again, however, we could’ve spent significantly less had we not rolled out of Primi considerably tipsy – despite the huge quantity of food we’d ordered. They don’t call me the Amsterdam Foodie for nothing!
Bar Spek
Since the end of last year, I’ve been organising a regular “freelancer borrel” for fellow entrepreneurs who are without colleagues on a Friday night; and last month’s after-work drinks location was Bar Spek. Over a couple of seizoensbieren (seasonal beers), we tried the flat bread with shaved pumpkin, goat’s cheese, chilli, sage pesto and a sort of courgette tzatziki. I liked the bite from the pumpkin (it wasn’t mushy as you might expect), the fragrance from the sage and the freshness of the courgette cream. Surprisingly good, as well as easy to share!
Bar Spek’s eminently shareable flat breads
Bar Spek’s falafel were rather bitter – I wasn’t sure if it was because they were made with broad beans (according to the menu) or just served with too much tahini. We also tried a sort of sweet ‘n savoury baklava filled with cheese, walnuts and dried fruit, and drizzled with honey. A single bite tasted good, but it was too sweet to eat a lot of it. Still, hats off to Bar Spek for serving shareable bites that are different from the usual…
Tapas de Arroyo
Ticking the traditional tapas box is Tapas de Arroyo on the Amstel River, complete with rustic wooden interior and legs of jamón hanging from the ceiling. They make a tasty jug of Sangria, fresh and moist tortilla, and garlic-laden smoky shrimp with hot butter and smoked paprika. Arroyo’s albondigas (meatballs) also have a nice loose texture and a rich tomato sauce. Pork cheeks were a good effort, but not a patch on those I ate in San Sebastian (to be fair, I was spoiled for life by being taken to the best tapas bar for pork cheeks in the city by a local foodie). I was looking forward to chorizo with pimientos de Padrón, but cooking them in the same oil in the same pan didn’t work – the chorizo fared well, but the peppers ended up greasy and flaccid. They’d have been better served separately. For tapas in Amsterdam, however, Arroyo is not a bad choice overall.
Tapas de Arroyo’s garlic-laden smoky shrimps
Aperitivo o’clock, borreltijd, tapas time or happy hour – whatever you call it, where are your favourite places in Amsterdam for an early-evening drink and a snack? Let me know in the comments!
It was early 2007, and I’d just hired a makelaar to help me buy my first apartment in Amsterdam. I was considering Oud-West (I’d been living near the Overtoom for the past nine months or so), de Baarsjes perhaps, or maybe the Plantagebuurt. Back then, I’d never even heard of the skinny pizza-slice of land on the other side of the train tracks from the Westerpark. It was halfway to the dreaded Amsterdam Noord! I mean, it looked kind of central – so close to Amsterdam Centraal Station and the Jordaan – but who ever went north of the tracks? And then one crisp, bright February morning, I ventured up to the unheard-of Spaarndammerbuurt and stood in the middle of a still-being-renovated apartment with an open-plan kitchen (and this back in the day when every old building in Amsterdam featured a narrow galley kitchen off a chilly hallway)… I fell in love.
Five months later, I moved in and started exploring my new local neighbourhood. There were a couple of dodgy old-man bars, a post office and (thank god!) an Albert Heijn had just opened at the top of the street. But that was about it. When I wanted to go out in the evening, I biked to the Noordermarkt – it was the closest area with any kind of restaurants or bars. Even the Westergasfabriek was at that time home to Pacific Parc and not a lot else.
Ten years later, times have changed. A lot. People who don’t live in the Spaarndammerbuurt have actually heard of it. And that’s not all – they come here to go out in the evening but get away from the tourists at the same time. For now at least, we have the best of both worlds: a truly local neighbourhood vibe but with restaurants and bars worth getting on your bike for.
So, at the risk of ruining the very qualities I prize so much in my little slice of Amsterdam, I bring you…
The 10 Best Restaurants and Bars in Amsterdam’s Spaarndammerbuurt
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Freud
As much social project as it is restaurant, Freud offers psychiatric patients the opportunity to work in its kitchen or front of house. The result? The service may be a little more eccentric than elsewhere in Amsterdam, but certainly no worse – and compared to a great many Amsterdam restaurants, considerably better. The food is good (and good value) too: eat three courses for under €30. The angle is loosely European, with the menu generally comprising a trio of starters followed by a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian main. The wine list is short but does the job. All in all, an unassuming but unfailingly pleasant little neighbourhood restaurant.
Starting out in the Spaarndammerbuurt as Yummie Sushi, it then added Vietnamese food (including pho) to its menu, and morphed into Pho & Yummie. Well, I’m happy! The pho is warming, fragrant and packed full of goodies; the sushi is varied, fresh and well put together. They offer a speedy takeaway service or a smallish area to eat in, and I believe they were even granted an alcohol licence recently. What’s not to like? Pho & Yummie, you are yummy!
Arguably, de Walvis was the breakthrough that really started to make the difference to the Spaarndammerbuurt’s reputation. Opening in May 2012, it brought the hipsters to the hood – and as we all know, where the hipsters lead, the rest of us will (however reluctantly) follow. Although de Walvis is essentially just an eetcafe, it serves specialty beers, has a decent coffee machine, and is full of girls wearing high-waisted skinny jeans and louche ponytails. The food can be a little hit and miss, but you can’t go too wrong with the roast chicken or the burger at dinnertime – or indeed the tasty bar snacks at after-work o’clock.
As regular readers will know, I’m a confirmed omnivore with distinctly carnivorous tendencies. So it’s odd that I’d even step into a vegan restaurant. But when said vegan restaurant is five doors down from your place, there’s really no excuse – and I’m glad I gave Dophert a try. At least at lunchtime. Skip breakfast (it’s all scrambled tofu “eggs”, smoked tempeh “bacon” and seitan “chorizo” – kill me now) but at lunchtime they serve real food: tasty lentil salads, club sandwiches, great hummus, fresh juices and other things that even people who love actual bacon can enjoy.
Bar Mick’s flammkuchen – goes great with a Ciney beer!
Bar Mick
I’ve had a soft spot for Bar Mick ever since they started a Facebook page way back in 2013 called something like “Living the dream of opening my own bar” (which, like any good alcoholic, has always been my dream too). Dick and Marijke took over what used to be the post office and turned it into one of my favourite bars in Amsterdam, serving Ciney (officially the tastiest beer in the world), piled-high burgers and the yummiest flammkuchen. Plus, the service is the friendliest in town.
A newcomer to the Spaarndammerbuurt in 2017, Morris & Bella has an interesting concept: all dishes are vegetarian to start with, but you can add a meat or fish “supplement” for an additional fee. Of course, the meat and fish options have been especially chosen to work with that particular dish, but because you know that the veggie version stands alone (and also because you know you’re paying extra to be a carnivore) you think twice about ordering the supplements. The evening I dined there, I loved the starter of fresh peas and root vegetables with butter-bean purée and pea juice – it felt very clean, while still hitting the spot. My tussengerecht was cabbage rolls stuffed with carrot and leeks, and served with a curried lentil and mustard seed dressing – delicious even without the addition of braised beef. An excellent choice for vegetarians and meat eaters alike, with a good wine selection too.
Beetroot and feta salad at El Hermno de Kique… but who the hell is Kique?!
El Hermano de Kique
I was sad when Alex from Trela Plein upped sticks and went back to Greece. But my sadness abated when I learned that the venue would be taken over by the guys who run our local wine shop: Jacqwijn. For reasons best known to themselves, they decided to rename it El Hermano de Kique and open a Manzanilla, wine and tapas bar. Unlike many tapas bars in Amsterdam, the plates are small and cheap – so it’s possible to try quite a few different dishes even if there are only two of you. We ordered a Sardinian red wine I’d never heard of and settled in for some jamón, cheese, olives, beetroot salad, and rillettes to start with. From there, we moved onto warm dishes: squid stuffed with roasted red peppers (excellent), and chicken skewers with a bulgur wheat and roasted tomato salad. Good value, good flavours, and good guys who run the place.
I’ll admit I wasn’t a huge fan of Pinsa’s when I first reviewed it back in 2010, and would frequently bike out of my way to Pizza Bakkers or La Perla instead. But in the last year or two I’ve given Pinsa’s the benefit of the doubt and started popping in for their spicy ‘nduja-topped Diabolicum pizza more and more. In the intervening years, their crust has got crispier, their toppings have got more plentiful, and their customer base has grown accordingly. You’ll sometimes have a long wait for your pizza – but if all you’re doing is meandering back from the Westerpark in search of sustenance then you’ve got plenty of time to hang out at Pinsa’s while the lovely Italian chef lady works her magic.
A 2016 addition to the Spaarndammerbuurt’s “restaurant plein” (at the crossroads of Spaarndammerstraat, Assendelftstraat and Van Noordtstraat you’ve got Bar Mick, Café de Walvis and now El Hermano de Kique too), Brasserie van Noordt is filling the meaty hole that Dophert is leaving. Their menu includes ribs, roast chicken, curries, burgers and other carnivorous offerings, as well as sandwiches and salads at lunchtime. Food-wise, I’ve not been too impressed so far BUT they do have the sunniest terrace on the plein served up with plenty of chilled rosé and La Chouffe…
I don’t usually review chains, and while there’s nothing wrong with Bagels & Beans, it wouldn’t usually make a list such as this for that reason alone. However, the complete lack of breakfast and brunch options in the Spaarndammerbuurt merits Bagels & Beans getting a mention as it’s currently the only place I can roll out of bed to in the morning. There is one caveat, however: I am deeply upset that they no longer serve my favourite bagel – the pastrami, cream cheese and pickles with mustard sauce. B&B, if you’re reading this, BRING IT BACK!!!
PS. If you are a chef/restaurateur thinking of opening a brunch place in Amsterdam, please please please come to the Spaarndammerbuurt! If you are any good, you will get free social media marketing from me every weekend as I sit there drinking your flat whites and instagramming about you
This post was originally published on 30 August 2016, and was most recently updated on 17 August 2017 to reflect that fact that several restaurants have closed down and been replaced by others.
I was all ready to publish this article when another ramen restaurant opened in Amsterdam, which just goes to show how hot the ramen trend seems to be right now… It seemed like a waste not to try it and make this list a little more complete, albeit I’ll have probably failed in my quest for completeness by the end of the week – such is the pace of new openings. But before we get into all the noodly details, let me start with a caveat: I’ve never been to Japan. I’ve never even eaten ramen outside of Amsterdam. I’m comparing these places on a level playing field – but I’ve never played on another field, as it were. So I’m no expert – I’m simply speaking as I find, according to my own subjective tastes. With that in mind, and without further ado, I bring you my Ramen Amsterdam Roundup: what you should eat at seven ramen restaurants, and how I rate them against each other. Slurp, slurp!
Tokyo Ramen Takeichi
A relative newcomer on the Vijzelstraat, Takeichi gets packed with locals and tourists every lunchtime. The occasion I visited, I got the Nouko spicy chicken ramen with egg. The flavour of the broth was good (savoury and spicy), but a bit too thick for my taste and overly salty by the bottom of the bowl. The toppings in general were a highlight: I liked the little chicken meatball, thick slices of chicken, and spring onions. I wasn’t so keen on the raw yellow onions and slimy brown things that said they were bamboo shoots but had a texture very like mushrooms. The egg (which cost extra) was perfectly cooked, although seemed to have been chucked into the soup from cold. Unfortunately, the seaweed was also an optional extra so I didn’t get to taste that. In fact, a general point I’d make is that several of the newer ramen places seem to offer many of the toppings as optional extras – so what starts out as a €14 bowl of soup quickly tots up to €20 if you add in all the elements you’d actually want.
Nouko spicy chicken ramen at Takeichi
What to order at Tokyo Ramen Takeichi: Nouko spicy chicken ramen
In the same vein as Takeichi and also a newcomer, Vatten Ramen serves mostly chicken-based noodle soups – so once again I went for the spicy variety. The broth was slightly thinner than that at Takeichi but tasted good – I think I preferred it, but then again I dislike any soup that feels gelatinously thick. The toppings, however, were less impressive: the chicken char siu was just simple white chicken with little flavour. The egg came whole and was hard-boiled – which meant it was missing the gorgeously orange, rich, oozy egg yolk you’d expect. Also in the bowl were wilted greens (but more like spinach than seaweed), raw and fried onions – they tasted good, but again I missed the sea-fresh umami hit you get from seaweed (it was, once again, an extra).
Spicy chicken ramen at Vatten Ramen
What to order at Vatten Ramen: Spicy chicken ramen
I liked Umaimon so much the first time that I went back again four days later; the first time was a press event – the second I was a regular paying customer. Umaimon Amsterdam is “powered by” Takumi Düsseldorf – where Japanese chef Saeki has been peddling noodles for over a decade. And with good reason: they keep their ramen noodles in a special temperature-controlled cupboard, only getting them out when they’re just about to be cooked. At the press event, I tried seven different types of ramen soup in one sitting – yes, that’s some serious ramen dedication for you. As fabulous as they all were, I liked three better than the rest; so when I went back a few days later with the Honey Badger, we attempted to order two of them. Clearly something got lost in translation as I ended up with a thin chicken bouillon rather than the creamy, almost medicinal soup I’d been craving. But the issue finally got resolved and I now know what I want to order next time: the Noukou Tori Soba – a house special that’s as rich as it is fresh, with generous slices of roasted chicken, tiny but tasty chicken meatballs, deep-fried chunks of chicken (imagine a version of KFC that’s Japanese and awesome), sweet bamboo, bok choi and excellently marinated and barely boiled egg.
Noukou Tori Soba – house special at Umaimon (photo credit: Joyce Goverde)
For something less rich, try the Teriyaki Wantan Ramen, which has a much lighter broth but is still generously stuffed with wantan parcels and all the other trimmings. The Butatama Miso Ramen is also a hit – a sweeter, miso-based broth plays host to thin slices of pork and what I assume are lightly caramelised sliced onion. Whatever you order, it’s pure comfort in a bowl.
Tucked away behind the tiniest shopfront on the Ceintuurbaan is Sapporo Ramen Sora – judged by many to serve some of the best ramen in town. I have to say I disagreed: the pork bone broth that made up my Tonkotsu Shoyu ramen was thin and strange in texture – it looked like it had split. Meanwhile, the Charshu Shoyu’s broth was just a bit salty and uninteresting. Although I did appreciate the seaweed in both. The usual boiled eggs were off the menu due to the Dutch egg scandal the time I visited, which was a shame – and we weren’t offered anything else to make up for it. The venue itself is pretty basic and lacking in gezelligheid, which would be no problem if the ramen was better – but I remained unconvinced.
Tonkotsu Shoyu ramen at Sapporo
What to order at Sapporo Ramen Sora: ISHII’s Tonkotsu Shoyu ramen
Ramen rating: 2/5
(although I’m prepared to believe they may just have been having a bad ramen day!)
I first reviewed Fou Fow back in January 2015, although I’ve been back several times since. It was arguably the first place to be serving proper ramen in Amsterdam, and as such holds a bit of a special place in my heart. Fou Fow offer their noodle soup in three sizes, with various different bases to their broths. Pig addict that I am, I usually go for the pork broth which is served with more pork, various types of seaweed, and half a boiled egg (which is both warm AND oozing with yellow yolk). The first time I went, I was warned that the pork broth had “a stronger flavour” than the regular chicken, vegetable or miso broths. Bring. It. On. I loved every spoonful.
Tonkotsu ramen at Fou Fow
Having now tried other ramen places in Amsterdam, I realise that Fou Fow’s broth is not as thick as some of the other contenders – which I actually like as I find some ramen too rich and cloying. So if you want to try the pork broth without slipping into a food coma afterwards, this is the place to do it. Plus, they now have two locations: Elandsgracht and Van Woustraat.
Ramen-Ya is in the Red Light District, which can be handy when you have visitors to show around. I’ve tried various versions of their wide selection of ramen since I first reviewed Ramen-Ya in December 2016: namely the “Kimchi Ramen”, the “Hakata Deluxe” and the “Veggie”. The former comprised chicken broth with kimchi (obviously), pork char siu (essentially BBQ-ed pork belly), black wood-ear mushrooms, half a boiled egg and, of course, the noodles. The ramen themselves had great bite and flavour to them; the char siu was melt-in-the-mouth; the egg was perfectly cooked with a rich orange yolk; the mushrooms tasted like seaweed (luckily for me); and the kimchi added a welcome sour kick. In short, I loved it.
Kimchi Ramen and Hakata Deluxe at Ramen-Ya
The vegetarian ramen was slightly disappointing compared to its meaty counterparts, but then that’s hardly surprising. It’s difficult to recreate the rich creaminess you get from bones in a broth made from vegetable stock. The Hakata Deluxe was a pork broth (far creamier and stronger in flavour than the chicken broth of the Kimchi Ramen) with soy sauce and a fattier variety of pork char siu. The Honey Badger loved it the first time, but I found the richness of it all a bit overpowering. With that being said, the last time we went to Ramen-Ya, either a different chef or a different recipe was being used and the pork broth was so thick and fatty that even the Honey Badger couldn’t finish it and ended up feeling pretty ill afterwards. Another foodie friend gave me a similar report just the other day. It’s a shame, but if you avoid the Hakata and stick with the Kimchi you should still be ok.
The TonTon Club in Westerpark isn’t a ramen restaurant per se, but they do serve a dish called Tsukemen – or “dipping ramen”. Cold noodles, pak choi, enoki mushrooms, a soft-boiled egg, and either pork belly or chicken katsu (breaded, fried strips of chicken). The soup was warm, but not warm enough to really heat up the rest of the ramen ingredients that were designed to be dipped into it – all of which were served fridge-cold. Plus, the broth tasted artificially thick, cloying, and overly sweet and salty. There are many other good reasons to go to the TonTon Club (the ramen burger is fun, as are the arcade games), but the dipping ramen isn’t one of them.
Tsukemen (dipping ramen) at TonTon Club
What to order at TonTon Club: anything but the Tsukemen!
I’ve written essays about meat restaurants… volumes about fish restaurants… lengthy tomes about vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Amsterdam… But of course every week, every day – every meal, in fact – is a new eating opportunity. And as an omnivore, I simply can’t keep up. Recently, I’ve discovered a great new BBQ restaurant, a casual neighbourhood seafood bar, and a cosy romantic spot that would be perfect for vegetarians with omnivorous partners. Unable to choose which angle to focus on, I bring you all three: Amsterdam restaurants for every taste and occasion!
If you value independent restaurant reviews like this one, consider supporting my blog by buying my cookbook!
Meat restaurant: Carnivore Smoke BBQ
A few months ago, I said that if you’re looking for good BBQ in Amsterdam you should stop wasting your time and head straight to Pendergast (or pop over to my roof terrace on any given sunny weekend). While there are places aplenty selling good meat, there are very few serving real low ‘n slow BBQ… so I was thrilled for my Amsterdam Zuid counterparts when I discovered Carnivore Smoke BBQ. Their pork ribs were top notch, their pulled pork a little heavy on BBQ sauce but good in texture, their beef ribs not quite as good as the flat ribs we smoked a few weeks ago but tasty nonetheless, and their brisket a close second to Pendergast’s.
Ribs, brisket and pulled pork at Carnivore Smoke BBQ
I liked Carnivore’s sides too: coleslaw was traditional and well made; cornbread was moist and sweet; mac ‘n cheese was good and cheesy (although the cheese on the top would’ve benefited from being browned up in the oven); and the porky beans were excellent in flavour, albeit the sauce could’ve been thicker. The bill came to €43 each, including plenty of full-bodied, muscular Malbec. In short, Pendergast finally has some competition in the south: Carnivore isn’t quite up there yet, but it’s definitely on its way…
Fish restaurant: The Walrus & the Carpenter
Meanwhile, the pescatarians among you will appreciate The Walrus & the Carpenter in the up-and-coming Indischebuurt. After kicking off with a generous G&T, we cracked on with half a dozen oysters (fresh and zingy on the half shell, as they should be) followed by a two-tiered platter of fruits de mer.
Happy Oyster Hour is every weekend at The Walrus & the Carpenter!
The latter was unusual in that it featured both the usual cold seafood (on ice on the bottom tier) as well as hot mussels, clams and razor clams on the top tier. The cold section included more oysters, a fresh and spicy octopus salad, meaty crab claws, sesame-marinated just-seared tuna with seaweed salad, and shell-on king prawns. The whole lot came with a not overly sweet thousand island dipping sauce and crusty bread. Our bill came to €50 each, but bear in mind we had both G&Ts as aperitif and plenty of wine, so the drinks made up a significant chunk of the price. Top tip: every weekend, the Walrus puts on Happy Oyster Hour during which oysters are just €1 each!
Fruits de Mer comes both hot and cold at The Walrus
Don’t leave the Walrus without checking out the loos: in the ladies, you’ll find photos of hot guys in fishing gear (think Brad Pitt and his fishing rod about 20 years ago); I have no idea what you’ll find in the gents – possibly mermaids!
Omnivorous/vegetarian restaurant: Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger
As a confirmed omnivore, I tend to order meat and fish dishes in restaurants because they’re the most interesting. Not so at Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger, where the vegetarian dishes are more numerous than the non-vege options and are equally creative. I went there for an anniversary dinner, which turned out to be ideal as the restaurant is very romantic, too. We ordered six dishes to share, which was just about perfect for a hungry couple like us (others might stop at four or five). You can pick your own dishes or let the kitchen decide for you – either way, you’re in for a treat.
We tried three of the vegetarian options, each of which was better than the last. The burrata was excellent (I wonder where they get it from?) and came served simply with a couple of lightly roasted cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, a balsamic reduction and crispy flatbread. Parsnip tart was almost like a gratin, with leek tempura and parsnip chips on top. Sweet, rich, and satisfying. Roasted radicchio was my favourite: bitter-sweet, served with cavolo nero, kardoen and the most creamily decadent wet polenta. Pure autumnal comfort and a wonderful use of seasonal veg, with a lovely panko crunch on top. For those who have no idea what kardoen is (and I was one of them), its stalks look a bit like celery but it’s related to the artichoke family, and comes from the Mediterranean sea area.
Burrata at Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger
In the meat department, lamb sweetbreads came with caramelised baby onions and a delicate jus (excellent, although we mistook lamsballen on the menu for lamb meatballs and not literally testicles! Still, no harm done…). Coquelet (much like a poussin) was marinated in lemon and herbs and served with soaked raisins. Also very good, except for I somehow confused it with rabbit on the menu – strike two against me on our anniversary dinner!
For dessert, we shared a cherry clafoutis, which was the only disappointment of the evening. I’ve made dozens of clafoutis in my life (mostly because they’re extremely easy) and this one was far heavier and more floury than it should’ve been. Dinner came to €55 each, including a bottle of very drinkable Sangiovese.
While I have absolutely no idea who Meneer de Wit is (the chef is called Simo Bouabgha, so it can’t be him), I do believe that places like Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger are the future of Amsterdam restaurants. Not only is it an excellent choice of venue to take small groups of friends who may be a mixture of vegetarians and omnivores – it also encourages those of us who want to eat less meat to order a more sustainable alternative from the menu.
‘Tis the season… for not knowing what on earth to buy your nearest and dearest! But fear not: if they like eating and/or reading, I’ve rounded up seven of the best gifts for foodies – especially those who love books. From the eateries of Amsterdam to the recipes of Rome… from the culinary quirks of the Dutch to 50 ways to liven up your lunch… these cookbooks and otherwise food-tastic tomes are the answer to your Christmas shopping dilemmas. (Or Sinterklaas shopping… or Hanukah shopping… whatever the celebration, these gifts for foodies have got you covered!)
Amsterdam Cookbook by Laura de Grave
About the Amsterdam Cookbook: Discover the taste of Amsterdam! In this cookbook, culinary journalist Laura de Grave introduces you to her favourite Amsterdam restaurants and teams up with the city’s chefs to prepare typical Amsterdam dishes that have become indelible features of the local cuisine. She invites us into the kitchen where she reveals not only the recipes themselves but also the stories behind each dish. She also meets the master craftsmen who are responsible for preserving the often centuries-old traditions and methods of cooking. Hop up on the back of Laura’s bike and join her as she criss-crosses culinary Amsterdam in search of the best markets, typical Amsterdam restaurants, the coolest hangouts and secret addresses where only the very best of Amsterdam products are prepared.
What Laura says: “When I visit another city, I am always searching for typical dishes from that city and addresses where to eat. With this book you can do that in Amsterdam.”
Available: in print from 27 November 2017 but can be pre-ordered now
Languages: Dutch and English versions
Working Lunch by Vicky Hampton
About Vicky Hampton’s Working Lunch cookbook: Bored of overpriced ham-and-cheese sandwiches and packet soups from the canteen? If your workplace has a surface big enough to fit a chopping board, and perhaps a kettle or toaster at best, Vicky Hampton’s Working Lunch is here to help. This compact lunch cookbook is for people who are keen to make healthy, simple meals, but who don’t have the time to spend hours in the kitchen – whether at work or at home. The book features 50 easy lunch recipes (in English) covering fresh vibrant salads, cool summery soups, spicy couscous and pimped-up sandwiches. Available in both print and e-cookbook versions!
Gifts for foodies – Working Lunch
What Vicky says: “I started off writing the cookbook for office workers, having been generally disappointed by office canteens. But over time I’ve met people who work from home or who travel a lot and stay in Airbnb apartments, and they all love the recipes too!”
Available: in print and e-book (PDF and E-PUB) versions now
Language: English only
Flavors of Life by Jessica Lipowski
About Flavors of life:Flavors of Life is a collection of inspirational biographies, sharing the stories of 62 entrepreneurs from around the world. Ranging from a famous Swiss drummer to an American ballet dancer to those who grew up during the apartheid in South Africa or in a small village in the mountains of Nepal, they are connected by a common thread: all own a restaurant in Amsterdam. To them their lives are normal – just everyday events and choices – but their experiences are unexpected and fascinating.
What Jessica says: “In a way, our stories create a world recipe. Combined with my journalistic background and interest in writing human-interest pieces, not to mention my love for food, I decided to interview international restaurant owners, digging into their history – from childhood to present day – to discover exactly how they got involved in the restaurant industry, as well as how they ended up in Amsterdam.”
About I Heart Rome: A love letter to Rome, with beautiful food and location photography, classic recipes, and stories from the heart of the Eternal City. Rome is an open-air museum; it’s a modern-day marvel of a city that has seen centuries of emperors, popes, movements, triumphs, and tragedies. It’s a city where the present and past sit side by side and interact in a beautiful, yet sometimes complex, kind of way. Through quirky local stories and glorious pictures, I Heart Rome takes you on an inspiring journey through the Rome that tourists rarely get to see. In a country justifiably famous for its food, Rome boasts its own fascinating and unique cuisine that is intrinsically tied to its history. Influences from Ancient Rome through to more recent events are reflected in the food culture of the Eternal City today. And given the passionate nature of Romans as a people, it’s no wonder that dining is taken so seriously. From carbonara recipes to artichoke-frying techniques, just about everything food-related is up for—and causes much—debate in Rome.
What Maria says:“I visited Rome over a dozen times in my 20s. Every time I left the city, I cried. I felt like I belonged in Rome and the pull eventually became too profound to ignore. This book is dedicated to the city that has adopted and nurtured me, that gave me a new lease on life. It is a collection of my stories, recipes I’ve tasted along the way, snippets of what I’ve learnt, what I’ve eaten and who I’ve met.”
Brunch is Hell by Rico Gagliano and Brendan Francis Newnam
About Brunch is Hell: Society is under threat. The culprit? BRUNCH. Not merely a forum for overpriced eggs, brunch is a leisure-time-squandering hellscape, embodying all that is soul-killing and alienating about modern life. How to fight back? By throwing dinner parties–the cornerstone of civilized society! Dinner parties–where friends new and old share food, debate ideas, and boldly build hangovers together. If we revive the fading art of throwing dinner parties the world will be better off, and our country might heal its wounds of endless division… all without having to wait in a 9-hour line to eat toast. To that end, BRUNCH IS HELL takes hesitant hosts through every phase of throwing a great dinner party, from guest list to subpoena. Loaded with wit, celebrity advice, and tongue-in-cheek humour–plus sincere insights about how humans can be more generous to each other – BRUNCH IS HELL is a spirited guide to restoring civility.
What Rico says: “The book is mainly a funny ‘How To’ guide to throwing dinner parties. But it’s also a sincere plea for people to spend less time having superficial chats at restaurants, and more time gathering in each other’s homes for meaningful conversations about everything from art to politics. That said, my favorite bit in the book is definitely the formula I created with which hosts can mathematically determine who gets the last piece of food on a communal serving dish.”
Available: in print and Kindle versions from 5 December 2017 but can be pre-ordered now
Language: English only
Vegan for Friends by Alexander Gershberg
About Vegan for Friends: Chef Alexander Gershberg takes plant-based vegan cuisine one step further. The recipes make delicious and rich dishes that you wouldn’t expect from vegan food – classics that home cooks will be happy to repeat many times. But beyond a regular cookbook, Vegan for Friends is a journey: each chapter brings a different story with a different style of cooking. The traditional Russian cuisine of his mother, the Jewish comfort food he makes for his grandmother, the Middle Eastern cuisine with which he grew up, the quick meals he cooks for his mates when there’s nothing left in the fridge, the edgy food he cooks for his musician friends… Just like the contemporary urban landscape, this book is a multicultural culinary mosaic. It is layered with stories, jokes, emotions, people, friends, countries and cultures. Some recipes are simple, others more complicated, some are modern and others traditional, but what unites them all is the love, the soul and the people that Gershberg portrays so generously through his cooking and writing.
Photographer: Lize Jansen
What Alexander says: “I wanted to make a book full of dishes that you wouldn’t be ashamed to serve to your friends. On the contrary: dishes you would be proud of and that would make your friends think vegan food is amazing! When people are new to plant-based cuisine, they might feel that the meal is too mild tasting, not satisfying enough, and ‘missing the meat’. When cooking vegan meals for friends, I learned that it is important that the meal is satisfying, rich and filling.”
About Stuff Dutch People Eat: Stuff Dutch People Eat is a comprehensive celebration of Dutch cuisine. Whether you’re looking for festive sweets, traditional tastes or colonial classics, we’ve got something for every appetite! From breakfast straight through to dessert, Stuff Dutch People Eat will lead you through a culinary adventure spanning flavours—and centuries! Discover 40 easy-to-make recipes that are sure to restore your faith in the delightfully delicious Dutch kitchen! Eet smakelijk!
On a purely personal level, 2017 was pretty epic: not least because it was the year in which I got married and became Dutch. Had you asked me ten years ago whether either of these things were on the cards, I might have given becoming Dutch about a 25% chance, while getting married would’ve scored about 2%. But hey, Brexit causes us all to do crazy things… On a professional level, 2017 also saw me win back the rights to my cookbook and start selling it again. From when I first began writing it back in 2011 through to promoting it today, that book has cost me much sleep, many grey hairs, and unquantifiable amounts of both hours and euros. But it’s my child: no matter how much hard work it is, there are no regrets.
The Amsterdam food scene, meanwhile, has blossomed in ever more unexpected ways over the past 12 months. 2017 was the year in which ramen restaurants started multiplying, and my ramen post got more views in a week than most of my reviews get in a year. It prompted a couple of death threats too, which I can only take as a compliment in this era of Twitter trolls and #metoo. Last January, I went vegetarian for a month, which meant that I discovered far more of Amsterdam’s vegetarian restaurants than I even knew existed before – I’m pleased to report that two of them made it into my 10 best restaurants in Amsterdam list below. Meanwhile, Scandinavian food hit town in the form of Amsterdam’s new wave of Nordic cafes. Plus, a plethora of wine bars serving aperitivo-style bites have also been ushered in. I can honestly say that in my 12 years as an Amsterdammer, the food has never been better.A quick note before we get into this year’s Top 10 in detail: a few months ago, I came across a Reddit thread about my Top 10 Restaurants in Amsterdam 2016 post from this time last year: as well as several comments in support, various complaints focused on the fact that my list was entirely subjective (of course it is! when were restaurant reviews anything but?) while others were convinced the whole thing was an exercise in paid promotion (it wasn’t, and that hurts). So if you’re reading this at some point down the line completely out of context, let me assure you that a) none of these restaurants are paying me; b) these are just restaurants I loved in 2017 (they didn’t necessarily open in 2017) and c) this is only my opinion. I’ve eaten in a lot of Amsterdam restaurants over more than a decade, so I think I’m comparing apples with apples – but at the end of the day, it’s just my view. So let’s keep things friendly, eh? On that note, and without further ado…
My Top 10 Amsterdam Restaurants in 2017
Best restaurant for date night: Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger
Arguably the future of dining, at Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger the vegetarian dishes are more numerous than the non-vege options and are equally creative. I went there for an anniversary dinner, which turned out to be ideal as the restaurant is very romantic, too. We ordered six dishes to share, which was just about perfect for a hungry couple like us (others might stop at four or five). You can pick your own dishes or let the kitchen decide for you – either way, you’re in for a treat. We tried three of the vegetarian options, each of which was better than the last. The burrata was excellent (I wonder where they get it from?) and came served simply with a couple of lightly roasted cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, a balsamic reduction and crispy flatbread. Parsnip tart was almost like a gratin, with leek tempura and parsnip chips on top. Sweet, rich, and satisfying. Roasted radicchio was my favourite: bitter-sweet, served with cavolo nero, kardoen and the most creamily decadent wet polenta. Pure autumnal comfort and a wonderful use of seasonal veg, with a lovely panko crunch on top. In the meat department, lamb sweetbreads came with caramelised baby onions and a delicate jus. Meanwhile, coquelet (much like a poussin) was marinated in lemon and herbs and served with soaked raisins. All excellent, and perfect for date night – especially when one partner is vegetarian and the other isn’t.
Understated and under the radar, Graham’s Kitchen is a culinary enclave down an often overlooked street sandwiched between Van Woustraat and the Amstel River. Like many of Amsterdam’s best chefs at the moment, Graham Mee doesn’t offer much choice: you’re invited to order between three and six courses, with the option to take the wine pairings with whichever courses you like. Before the meal proper started, we were treated to a few delightfully unique amuses bouches: the highlight was a creative take on the English breakfast (Chef Graham is from Liverpool) featuring black pudding, egg, bacon and the like in an elegant little potje. But it was the starter that was possibly my favourite dish: avocado with zesty corvina ceviche, earthy quinoa, fiery jalapeno gel, sweet and fragrant pineapple cream, fresh peas, and crunchy corn nuts. It was a zingy delight – a party on my palate. I continued with cod served with a Dutch-Asian fusion of brown shrimps, spring onions, edamame beans, seaweed, sweet slivers of daikon, and an umami-rich miso jus. The meaty main of lamb (both slow-cooked rump and succulent neck) came with a mix of loosely Mediterranean vegetables, aubergine purée, lentils, burrata and basil cream. At €38 for three courses, Graham’s Kitchen is definitely competitive with restaurants of a similar level.
English breakfasts and country gardens: amuses bouches at Graham’s Kitchen
Best restaurant for large groups: Jacobsz
If you’re looking for a group dining option that doesn’t compromise on quality, Jacobsz in Watergraafsmeer has a huge upstairs dining area for large groups that can house up to 120 people for a walking dinner. The night we went, however, it was just the two of us so you can assume the menu may be a little different at scale. We kicked off with Jacobsz’s signature cocktail: a martini-style drink that featured lemon curd and egg white. Munching on a fancy radish-miso-esque amuse, we perused the menu. I plumped for the pork belly with kale, onion jelly and potato mousse. The flavours were perfectly balanced, and the pork belly divine. My main was skrei, termed as “winter cod” and Norwegian in origin. It was served with mini Thai fishcakes (tasting of shrimp, lemongrass and kaffir lime), a wafer-thin prawn cracker, and a sauce made of similarly Southeast Asian-fusion ingredients. Dessert was a creative take on a red velvet cake, served with carrot ice cream and a slick anemone of rose and hibiscus. Meanwhile, a rhubarb tart was encased in black cardamom pastry and served with black liquorice ice cream. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but heaven if you’re a fan of Dutch drop!
There are very few restaurants I’ll bike 7 km to get to in the freezing cold, but Betty’s is one of them. It’s on the Rijnstraat, which isn’t so far out of town if you live in the south, but if you’re coming from my area (Westerpark) it’s a bit of a trek. Once you get there, however, you’ll be greeted by the friendly couple who run the place – the woman is the chef, her other half is front of house. As far as I recall, there’s no menu – you simply let them know if there’s anything you don’t eat and wait to be surprised. The food I ate there was a fusion of many different styles of cuisine, but all vegetarian and mostly vegan too. Think shareable antipasti, spicy dal and rice, pickled root salads, and the most indulgent (non-vegan) desserts. It’s the kind of place where you want to order a bottle of wine, get comfy, and stick around all evening.
Umaimon Amsterdam is “powered by” Takumi Düsseldorf – where Japanese chef Saeki has been peddling noodles for over a decade. And with good reason: they keep their ramen noodles in a special temperature-controlled cupboard, only getting them out when they’re just about to be cooked. Try the Noukou Tori Soba – a house special that’s as rich as it is fresh, with generous slices of roasted chicken, tiny but tasty chicken meatballs, deep-fried chunks of chicken (imagine a version of KFC that’s Japanese and awesome), sweet bamboo, bok choi and excellently marinated and barely boiled egg. For something less rich, try the Teriyaki Wantan Ramen, which has a much lighter broth but is still generously stuffed with wantan parcels and all the other trimmings. The Butatama Miso Ramen is also a hit – a sweeter, miso-based broth plays host to thin slices of pork and what I assume are lightly caramelised sliced onion. Whatever you order, it’s pure comfort in a bowl.
Noukou Tori Soba – house special at Umaimon (photo credit: Joyce Goverde)
Best Nordic cafe: Selma’s
The first thing you notice about Selma’s is the décor’s relaxing pastel hues of pink and turquoise. The coffee is also excellent: a strong flat white with just enough milk and plenty of smooth, fruity flavour. The food menu is as unpronounceable as it is delicious: I ordered a Smörrebröd (open-faced sandwich) of the Skagenröra variety, which was a crawfish and shrimp mayo-based salad served on good toasted sourdough bread. It was fairly creamy, but the addition of lamb’s lettuce and plenty of dill freshened it up nicely. Meanwhile, my friend ordered Köttbullesallad – which I can only translate as meatball salad. It’s not a combination I’d have ever thought of, but it worked surprisingly well: the salad was rocket based and the beetroot and apple were fresh, sweet and delicious, contrasting in both texture and taste with the soft, comforting meatballs. Because Selma’s is along the Jan van Galenstraat away from the tourist centre, the service is pretty good too – Selma (whoever she is) evidently knows that she needs to keep a local crowd coming back for more.
Flying the flag for aperitivo o’clock is Primi, where the friendly Italian guys offer free snacks with your drinks between 5.30 and 7.30 pm every day. I tried their Aperol Spritz and their Smoky Margarita and tucked into a board laden with olives, nuts, marinated artichokes, creamy little basil tarts and (my favourites) tiny pizza pockets stuffed with oozing mozzarella and a smidge of tomato sauce. Not stopping there, we ordered various antipasti to share: arancini (fried balls of risotto) were tasty. We also tried the excellent burrata, which was served with a sort of cold pea soup, and a dish of aubergine parmigiana – simply triumphant. Primi also serves pasta dishes, gnocchi, main courses and desserts – but after all the aperitivo snacks you’ll probably be far too full to eat them all!
Nothing speaks of the moment of cool that fish restaurants in Amsterdam are currently enjoying better than Bar Fisk: part cocktail bar, part pescatarian paradise. If you’re lucky, you might even get to sit at the fish-shaped table. The food is designed to be shared but is larger than tapas-sized portions. Highlights for me were the corvina tartar, which was essentially a cross between ceviche,tabbouleh and smoky aubergine: literally three of my favourite things on one plate. Mackerel (also cured rather than cooked) was served with roasted cauliflower, chilli and a tahini sauce: again, there were so many of my best-loved ingredients here that I couldn’t fail to love the dish. Squid came with earthy beetroot salad and crunchy roasted pecan nuts. Golden fried sardines arrived swimming in a peppery dressing atop a marine blue plate. And pan-fried bream fillets were served simply with some roasted garlic, toasted almonds and yoghurt. For me, it’s the combination of Middle Eastern flavours and fresh Mediterranean ingredients that really sets Bar Fisk apart.
Middle East meets Mediterranean at fish restaurant Bar Fisk
Best Asian-fusion food (and cocktails!): Geisha
Geisha is special for two reasons: its chef’s menu that allows you to taste a bit of everything; and its cocktails, which are made at next-door sister bar Porem. Our starter was a mix of sushi: tuna and salmon sashimi, a rainbow roll and a regular roll. Geisha doesn’t serve a huge range of sushi, so I assume the chef changes up what s/he serves, but you can expect a couple of rolls plus a few pieces of sashimi. Up next was a seafood soup that was slightly spicy, slightly sour and very good. It came with a few mussels, shrimps and veges, but the stand-out part was the broth itself. Our third and final course comprised two dishes: beef tenderloin that had been seared and was served raw and very tender, with an umami-rich sauce that was slightly sweet and slightly citric too. The other dish was seabass, served with its skin crispy and a sticky soy sauce and spring onions. An excellent balance of textures as well as tastes. The service at Geisha is also top notch, making it a great option to take a date or friends from out of town.
Best Indian restaurant in Amsterdam: Saravana Bhavan
Saravana Bhavan is a global chain of vegetarian Indian restaurants, although I think there’s only one in Holland. The décor is bright and spartan, which means the ambience isn’t great. But the dosas make up for it. If you’ve never had a dosa before (or even if you have), this is the place to try one: enormous crepe-like discs are filled with everything from cheese to potatoes to lentils. One of those to yourself would probably fill you up till your next meal for just a few euros. But if you do have room left (I suggest sharing), order one of the thalis for a full gamut of Indian flavours.
All the way from Kansas City, the folks at Pendergast know their way around a smoker. And a liquor bar, for that matter. So get your julep on and enjoy the meat-fest.
